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Liberty Bell
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Serpentine Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
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Page Views: 3,459
Submitted By: Mark SLC on Aug 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Ryan on Pitch 4 - pic taken from another party on ...

Description 

Great route that didn't seem to see much traffic. First pitch a little mossy but the rest we thought were stellar.

Pitch 1 - slab moves heading left into a corner with short 5.8 move over a bulge. Belay above some moss in a corner/gully below obvious steep corner w/ crack. 5.8

Pitch 2 - Head up easy handcrack to base of the business. We bumped a #3 to eye level on the start. Seemed to work well for us. Great gear, a bit wide and (for us) pretty physical. 5.11.

Pitch 3 - Awesome left angling hand crack. Note old wedged 2x4..?. Awesome exit move pulling a small roof/bulge with great gear. Continue above, building anchor before tunnel. 5.10

Pitch 4 - head up and right through tunnel (probably recommended) or left and over (harder w less pro). Continue on beautiful exposed sunny arete/spur. 5.7

Simul/scramble to summit.

Location 

Liberty Bell West Face. Approach as for Beckey route but stay left at fork in gully. You can stash packs here and pick em up on descent.

Route starts up and left so scramble up 4th class ledges to start at slung small pine above slabs. Look for prominent roofs as per topo left of the crack.

Descend as for all other routes from summit (Beckey Route and 2 raps - watch for rope catching on blocks below second station)

Protection 

We brought doubles to #3 camalot, and 1 #4 sufficed for bulge on crux 2nd pitch.


Photos of Serpentine Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan on pitch 1
Ryan on pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet 3rd pitch
Sweet 3rd pitch

Comments on Serpentine Crack Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 25, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

even with the fixed #3 it would be nice to have 3) #3 for this crux overhanging crack. Agreed that 1) #4 is good at the roof. There is not much small gear on this route. best to double up on #.5 - #2, with 3) #3. There are some small cam and nut options.
By elkheart
Aug 15, 2017

A few comments that may help on this route:

On pitch one we started near a tree (just left of an obvious water groove) that led up some overlaps and eventually into an obvious wide crack. It should be noted that this pitch is not "fun knobs", it is lichen-covered rock and tree climbing, but can be protected periodically and the crux of this pitch can be protected quite nicely.

On the next two pitches we took a lot of wide gear (3 #3/2 #4), which we used endlessly. It wasn't so much for the climbing, but also building anchors. We took doubles of everything else, except small stuff, but honestly triples from 1.0 to 4.0 wouldn't hurt.

It should be noted that the "scrambling" is quite extensive. When you pop out the hole on pitch four you honestly have a couple more pitches (if you don't scramble) until you reach the notch. It would probably be safest to descend the Beckey Route, but we descended the gully at the notch, which can be done with a 70 meter rope in 3 rappels. We did down climb to the first rappel, but you could rappel from a tree right near the summit. It would be nice to bring some extra webbing and biners to be on the safe side.

This is a beautiful climb that deserves more ascents!

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