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Serious But Not Desperate 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Bob Bartlett, Bob Harrington, Hank Levine
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: Bruce Willey on May 27, 2009

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Don motorcycle pants or leather lederhosen, and climb runout slab, clipping the few bolts interspersed between grainy, flaky granite. One bolt after the anchor on P-2 gets you (hopefully) into a wonderful right-facing corner which leads to the top of PSOM Pinnacle. Double rope raps lead down over the carnage of skin.


quick draws, gear to one inch.

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By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
May 28, 2011

Bob Harrington was not part of the F.A. party that he recalls.
By Muscrat
Nov 26, 2014

This is not meant to be the start of a long debate of the definition of R vs X, but if a fall results in having to be carried, in whatever manner, out of the area, is that not an X? You fall on this one, you are NOT walking home! Heady, be a confident 10+ slab climber.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Aug 16, 2015

haven't climbed the route, but got a good look at it when i was working on slab-o-rama. definitely did not have a 'X' feel. i believe you start from the same ledge as the raw deal. the initial slab moves are protected by a couple of (relatively) closely spaced bolts. it's all pretty low angle and the biggest danger is messing with crumbly flakes when you're 20'+ out from the last bolt.

a quick side note on being carried out and a X-rating: sometime in the late 90's or early 2000's i was belaying on top of the solarium in the gorge when i heard a scream and saw a woman fall on china wall. she didn't make that little traverse right off the (elevated) deck and fell just before clipping the first bolt (i believe it was child of light, 5.9). a good 15' fall in a horizontal position with no helmet. not pretty and on a climb most wouldn't even consider PG, let alone R or X. i was one of the first on the scene after lowering my wife and rapping (her boyfriend was utterly useless). she had head/facial trauma among other things, took the litter across the river to a dwp truck and a chopper to LA later on...
By bobh
Jun 5, 2016

No, the fa party listed is correct.

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