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Sargeant Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
39 Steps T 
Quebec Nordics T 
Rock Star T 
School Daze T 
Sergeant Pepper S 
Sgt. Rock T 
Suffering Catfish T 
War Games T 

Sergeant Pepper 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Frank Bentwood, January 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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the crux


The face between Suffering Catfish and 39 Steps.

Climb a delicate slab, with a pure friction crux (5.10-), then power over a bulge (5.11) to more delicate smearing (5.10-) to the top.


6 bolts to a 2-bolt chain anchor. The crux is very well protected.

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By Ben H
Dec 3, 2011

This felt a little hard at 11a. Really good though, just needs more traffic.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 12, 2012

Thoughtful, sustained, well protected friction (if a tad grainy). Crux is delicate and powerful. Convenient bolt anchor for toproping (HUGE 14mm 50kN Petzl glue ins)
By Ryan Bracci
From: San Juan Capistrano, CA
Apr 22, 2016

The rocks pretty crumbly here. Needs more traffic or cleaning.