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Eavesdown Docks 
Rim, The 

Serenity Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.45117, -111.66571 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,647
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2013
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Shady, with a short approach and lots of moderate routes.

The majority of the routes are on north-north-west and north-west facing rock and thus are in the shade until mid-afternoon during the warmer months. However, even in the afternoon many of the routes are shaded by trees and so are climbable without discomfort.

Note that at the time of this writing the routes here are all less than a year old. Until twenty years of traffic have cleaned them up they won't be quite like Division Wall. There is still a bit of grit and the odd loose rock. The upside is that the routes aren't polished, slick and over-chalked.

Getting There 

Park near the outlet of the Little Mill Campground (either inside the campground near Division or just past the exit bridge on the right side of the road).

Find the paved trail that leads east from the campground area (blocked with a couple of anti-vehicle pillars). Follow this trail for a few hundred feet until you come to a clearing on the right side that is bisected by a line of three-foot boulders.

Through the clearing on the far side of the boulders walk over a small, sandy area and follow a trail up the drainage until you come to a large, rough stump on the right side (there is a smaller stump prior to the larger one). Immediately past the stump turn right and walk twenty or thirty feet. You'll see in front of you a gray limestone wall. This is Haven, the left-most collection of routes at Serenity.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Serenity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Serenity:
Terraformed   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Persephone
Shindig   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Eavesdown Docks
Stolen Rope   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Eavesdown Docks
The Companion   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Eavesdown Docks
Out of Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Eavesdown Docks
Out to the Black   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Eavesdown Docks
Bushwhacked   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Eavesdown Docks
Browncoat   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Eavesdown Docks
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Eavesdown Docks
Firefly   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Eavesdown Docks
Our Mrs. Reynolds   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Persephone
Captain Hammer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Eavesdown Docks
Hero Of Canton   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Persephone
The Alliance   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Eavesdown Docks
Oh Captain! My Captain!   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Eavesdown Docks
Heart of Gold   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Rim
Shiny   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Haven
Stone Cold Xiaosho   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Haven
Two by Two   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Haven
Captain Tight Pants   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Eavesdown Docks
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Serenity

Featured Route For Serenity
Rock Climbing Photo: Perin Blanchard near the crux on Firefly.  Photo b...

Firefly 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Eavesdown Docks
70m Rope RequiredA steep start through two bolts to a ledge, followed by a slightly overhanging section with wonderful pockets. After the the steep bit, the angle and difficulty eases considerably to a slopey almost-ledge (you may want to use a two-foot sling on the bolt below the next steep section). From the ledge a gradually steepening section leads to the top past pockets, edges, and an overhanging crux to another, much larger ledge. A fun roof with big holds awaits over the top led...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Serenity Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: DK, Perin, John Ross. Hard at work making Serenity...
DK, Perin, John Ross. Hard at work making Serenity...
Rock Climbing Photo: The stump in the description after which you turn ...
BETA PHOTO: The stump in the description after which you turn ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The clearing bisected by boulders in the descripti...
BETA PHOTO: The clearing bisected by boulders in the descripti...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Getting There" map.
BETA PHOTO: "Getting There" map.

Comments on Serenity Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2017
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 7, 2013
Somebody's been watching a little Firefly!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2013
Solid work gentlemen! It's not everyday that you see 25 odd new routes pop up in AF. Can't wait to visit the crag and clean some of the choss off! I like the naming scheme too!
By nooky brown
Sep 8, 2013
Finally, a shady summer cliff with a bunch of moderate routes.
Should not take too long to clean up as it will probably become one of the most popular cliffs in the canyon.
I would strongly suggest the belayer wear a helmet for the next year or two.

Kudos to Perin and Darren for all the hard work and expense.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 12, 2013
Great area!! I can't believe how much good climbing these guys pulled out of a 5 minute approach from the car. Definitely take helmets; you'll be sure to pull several holds off each route you get on. Also consider rapping off some of the taller routes - the anchors are above ledges or bulges that make getting lowered hard on your rope.

Thanks for all the work!
By chris nance
Jun 8, 2014
Fun routes! The routes need some clean-up for sure. The grades were not consistent with other AF areas in my opinion. I thought over-all the grades were higher than they should have been. The 11's were closer to upper 10s and as the routes get cleaner and holds become more obvious I think the ratings will need to come down significantly. Thanks for all the work and effort putting them up. Very nice spot!
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 10, 2014
@chris_nance, thanks for the input and for adding your take on route ratings. I know there are more climbers on these routes so hopefully they will share their feedback too.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 19, 2014
Give this area 5 years and hopefully it will be as clean as division, but for now, beware the choss! We did our part by breaking several holds, mostly feet, on every route.
By Buddy Tangalos
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 14, 2015
Climbed this area for the first time, and was a bit worried about loose rock based on the MP comments for the area. I was pleasantly surprised to find the rock solid and clean, shade and comfortable climbing temperatures, and the routes long, well bolted and very enjoyable. We had no issues with rock fall or blowing holds.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 10, 2015
Great little crag. Some really good rock - in spots. Believe it or not, this is what most AF crags were like 25 years ago; chossy but with good texture. As the looseness cleans up, the holds polish up. Get it while it's good.
By samwisesam Treharne
Aug 12, 2017
I took a fall between the last bolt and the chains on "Our Mrs. Reynolds", hit the tree behind me and ripped apart my shorts. Between the choss, shitty belay area, and trees that were never properly trimmed, this area needs a lot more work. Careful at this crag!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 14, 2017
This isn't the gym you knob, the developers aren't going to be trimming mature pine trees to ensure you don't rip your abercrombie garments. Bring a fucking rake and level the base of the climbs instead of whining that people didn't do enough to satisfy your plastic munching ass.
By samwisesam Treharne
Aug 21, 2017
Boissal, keep on crushing it keyboard warrior!
By Dan.C
Sep 8, 2017
Left camera in black bag earlier this week at the crag. If found please let me know it would be much appreciated! Got $100 for ya too:)! Has lots of pics love to get back. Thanks!!!

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