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Serenity Prayer T,TR 

Serenity Prayer 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 215', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: June 17, 2016
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Oct
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Aug 13, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: This spruce tree marks the top of the route.

Description 

Note: the approach is from above. Rappel off the spruce tree closest to the actual summit using a 70m rope, set a gear anchor in the horizontal crack at the top of the steep slab, then rap practically off the rope end to reach a narrow strip of vegetation below the low, easy starting slab.
This route can be broken into multiple pitches at several spots.
From the base of the route, climb up easy slab to a right-facing, right-rising flake, and follow it to the base of steeper slab. Use another right-rising flake to gain access to holds above a small overlap, then climb up face passing one bolt to a stance below another, larger overhang. Climb through this via the left of two short, right-rising cracks. At crack's end, climb yet steeper slab, passing two bolts along the way, to the horizontal crack at the top of the steep section (mentioned above concerning the approach).
Climb up easy slab to a 6' steep wall, pass it using a vertical crack, then climb up to the final notch leading back to the spruce tree at the top of the technical rock.

Location 

Take the hiking trail to its end. From the summit, look skier's right for the spruce tree closest to the edge and top of mountain. This is the tree used to rap down the route; please place an anchor, do not rap directly off the tree.

Protection 

Green C3 or equivalent is important for one of the stretches between bolts. Otherwise, standard Adk Trad rack should suffice. A pink Tricam was used on the FA. There are 3 bolts en route, no fixed anchors.


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