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Questa Dome
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Ancient Ones, The T 
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Sequestered 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Ken Trout FFA: Paul Horak, Peter Prandoni, and Doug Bridgers
Page Views: 596
Submitted By: jesse punsal on Oct 31, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Tops of P1, 2, and 3 as seen from the approach.

Description 

Sequestered follows the right of 2 prominent right-angling crack system on the left side of Questa Dome. These are clear from the trail. You'll find beautiful rock, wonderful climbing, and some thin sections on this adventurous climb. The route description is in both guidebooks, but recommend splitting the pitches as below:

Rope up on the left side of Questa Dome, below a large left-facing corner, about 50' left of the start of Question of Balance.

P1: (190' 5.10- same as Questar) Start in a large left facing corner before transferring [left] to the dirty crack at ~20'. Follow easy climbing up and right (optional belay in here) till finding a left angling hand traverse crack leading to a small roof. After the roof, traverse left on face holds to a hidden bolt (upgraded recently) then up to the layback crack. Belay at the tree.

P2: (135' 5.11+)[Paul Horak's original topo gives this pitch 5.11- while Rock Climbing NM gives it 5.12- the consensus seems to be about in the middle.] Step right from the tree and make a couple slab moves heading up and aiming for the roof. Traverse right under the roof till you can clip a bolt and turn it. Move left aiming for a second bolt and fun vertical crack climbing (50m belay). After the vertical climbing follow the ever thinning right angling crack till it becomes a seam. Keep it together through the harder moves above your small stoppers and RPs for the last six feet till to a good ledge at the bottom of the large right facing corner with some fixed gear.

P3: (160' 5.12-) Head up crack and chicken heads till you can commit to big holds on the arete to the left. As the holds run out mantle and clip a 1/4" bolt above your head. The thin flake I used to make this move flexed a bit, you'll know it when you see it. The climbing following these four bolts up and then right is definitely the technical crux, put your slab face on if you've climbed clean to here because it's THIN. After the bolts move back into the crack where there are two pins in the thin part and gear up higher. The guide says to belay on gear above the pins but it seems like an unnecessary hanging belay. Instead continue onto the 5.8 R climbing on chicken heads till you can move right to a small ledge with a crack for gear and a large interesting looking water gutter crack to its right.

I think two of the four bolts have been replaced on this pitch and the others felt solid when I hung on them.

P4: (5.8) I followed the dirty crack corner with a few loose rocks in it above the belay. The dike to the right looked fun and clean but unpredictable. After about 25' of climbing go up on easy ground till you feel like stopping.

Location 

An obvious and clean line that can be seen from the hike in. Start is left of Question of Balance and can be seen from there. The top of the first pitch aims for a tree top to the left of a large roof. See picture.

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the base of P1
Looking up at the base of P1

Protection 

2 ea. cams from purple TCU to 2", 1 #3 cam, small to standard nuts and RPs, offsets nuts also useful.


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By Ross Morgan
From: Taos, NM
Jul 5, 2017

Great route! I'd say that the moves at the end of P2 (as described here) are solid 11+.

The 2nd and 4th bolts on the crux pitch have been replaced and the others felt solid. I think I went right a little too early at the end of this pitch (5.8R section) and ended up climbing the water groove for 15' before the ledge; the rock is more featured out left.

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