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Sentinel Spire

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Fast Draw T 
Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky on Tuesday T 
Medicine Man T 
Vision Quest T 

Sentinel Spire Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.10295, -108.72594 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,813
Administrators: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001
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Sentinel Spire is the beautiful free standing spire immediately across the canyon from Independence Monument. Most people approach it by rappelling from a tree at the Visitor's Center on the main rim road...then down climb easy slabs for a few hundred feet to the base of Fast Draw on the north face...or they go around to the south face to do the classic hard then hand crack, Medicine Man, 5.12b, and 4 pitches. The rock is composed of Windgate sandstone, the same as Indian Creek, but it is sandier and more lichen abounds (maybe more weathered). No matter, it is high quality crack climbing in a beautiful and less crowded setting.

Climbing Season

For the Colorado National Monument area.

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sentinel Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sentinel Spire:
Fast Draw   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky on Tuesday   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   
Medicine Man   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sentinel Spire

Featured Route For Sentinel Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Spread out at the top of pitch 2.

Medicine Man 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Colorado : Grand Junction Area : ... : Sentinel Spire
Awesome route. Exposed and steep! This has got to be one of the most classic splitters in the desert. If you don't climb 5.12 you can easily aid the crux pitch and toprope it. The rest of the pitches are very doable and offer some great desert crack climbing on a sweet tower. First free ascent by Alan Lester and Pete Takeda.Piz's comments were pretty much right on but thought I would try to add some more detail and add the route to the database._Approach: Two options: 1. Go to the campground and...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Sentinel Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: On top o' Sentinel Spire (Colorado National Monume...
On top o' Sentinel Spire (Colorado National Monume...
Rock Climbing Photo: The shadow of the Spire shows the height differenc...
The shadow of the Spire shows the height differenc...
Rock Climbing Photo: The place to rap is obvious. From Book Cliffs view...
The place to rap is obvious. From Book Cliffs view...
Rock Climbing Photo: Spires don't get much better.
Spires don't get much better.
Rock Climbing Photo: John Glime en route to the bottom of Sentinel.
John Glime en route to the bottom of Sentinel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finish it.
Finish it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse B. workin' the crux pitch.
Jesse B. workin' the crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo:

Comments on Sentinel Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Mar 16, 2014
The directions on this page and on the individual route pages to approach the tower via rappelling are crap. The Visitor Center is NOWHERE NEAR the tower. Also, merely stating, "head to the campground rim and rap" is not very accurate either. Here is the correct info:

Head to Book Cliffs Viewpoint, which is accessed via the same road as the campground but not in the campground. From the viewpoint building, follow a NPS trail down and then hike out as close to the tower as you can, 1 minute from road. Here is a tree that is a good anchor to fix from, and the rap is not long. 100' rope is plenty.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Jan 15, 2016
Is it possible to get conditions report for the spire approach? Anyone know if the approach slabs are covered by snow? We hope to climb this Sunday.
By Airbiscuit
Jan 16, 2016
Rap at the dead tree (bomber med. nut for backup) and a full 70 will get you down past anything sketchy. I think a 60 will probably make it too, but I haven't climbed on a 60 in ages. If there's snow it won't matter, which I bet there will be.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2017
So what is the wide crack left of Fast Draw?
It would apparently go ground-up, and you would not even need to start in on Fast Draw to the pin/bolt traverse that reaches it from near the mid-climb belay.
Any ideas?

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