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Apathetic Rock
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Sentimental Apathy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Zelenz, March 1993
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Sentimental Apathy (5.7+)

Description 

Grainy friction up the lumpy south face of the formation leads to a bolted anchor at the top. Maybe half a star out of five, but you could do a lot worse than this at Josh.

Protection 

4 bolts (w/gold shuts), bolted anchor/rap. All bolts are 3/8"


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Oct 10, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

This route appears to have originally started from the very bottom via the chopped bolt, but the logical entrance to the route is atop a boulder or two leaning against the rock on the right. Stepping off of this and making a couple of moves gains the first bolt (original second). Either start however, provides enough exposure to give this an Rish rating for some. And, although well protected after this point, the bolts holding the shuts should probably be replaced. Although the bolts are screwed in tight enough, the sleeve that they are in seemed loose especially on one of the anchor bolts.
By Murf
Oct 10, 2006

If this is the route I think it is, it is no less than a pile of junk. The rock is horrible quality, someone has etched initials into the rocks about 1/2 up, and one of the anchor bolts ( a modern one, not a split shaft ) moves in the hole. Over all, a suboptimal experience.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 8, 2012

First bolt is back in again....

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