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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Willie Crowther, 1960, after placing the bolts on rappel.
Page Views: 4,143
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (121)
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At the third bolt.


This is one of the very few bolted routes in the Gunks and is a great warm-up for Never Never Land. The crux is a high-ball boulder problem with gear at your feet.

Start below 3 bolts, 15' left of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. You can get great small gear in the second horizontal shelf. From here head up the bolt line, wandering left and right as needed, then up and right to the pine tree.


You'll need a light rack to supplement the 3 bolts.

Photos of Sente Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Becky at the first bolt.
Becky at the first bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sente 1989
Sente 1989
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh down low
Josh down low
Rock Climbing Photo: Gail floating up Sente
Gail floating up Sente
Rock Climbing Photo: At the anchors (tree).
At the anchors (tree).
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the 2nd bolt on Sente.
Above the 2nd bolt on Sente.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sente.

Comments on Sente Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 10, 2016
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jul 28, 2006

If you've done this route a few years ago the bolts were pretty mank. I hear the bolts were replaced recently; can anyone confirm?
By Mike fenice
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2006


There are three shiny new bolts that protect this climb.
Sep 3, 2007

At my height (5'7", -2 ape index), there is a 9+ or 10 move *before* placing the first piece of gear - I can't reach the first horizontal with my feet on anything reasonable. This is why I'll never lead this route - that move is a committing highball for me. Other moves on this route seemed reachy as well, and the route is really .... just so-so. Just my $0.02.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route. Very un-Gunks like slab climbing. Protects reasonably with #2 Yellow and #3 Orange Metolius doubled up at the first horizontal. Three bolts and a piton above that then one or two larger cams in the easy blocky stuff just before the end.
By kenr
Oct 29, 2010

Agree with JSH: If less than 5ft 7inch / 170cm, unless have unusually long arms, would have to stand on really dicy crystals or something in order to reach hand up to the horizontal.
That comes before placing the first cam in horizontal, below the first bolt.
(Or else someone post the special beta for non-tall leaders.)
By S. Neoh
Oct 31, 2010

I am 5'6" tall with short arms. I led this climb on-sight in 1996 and remembered some balancy but not hard moves before the 1st piece of gear. Sorry, can't say I remember more. I thought the climb was pretty good. I was more nervous leading Pas de Deux!
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awkward moves. Nothing special IMHO.
By cliffmama
Apr 26, 2012

Love this climb, great for those who like thin, balancy moves. Dicey first moves until you can get gear in - I'm 5'6" tall and I have to use the slopey ramp as a hold until I can reach the big horizontal. Then three bolts make the hardest section a well protected sport climb - it's very thin here but if you fell, you won't go far. Then the rest is easy trad. Tree has sling anchor on it, so easy to set up top rope from here to TR Sente, and Thin Slabs with a directional.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 8, 2014

I am 5'2" and I did not have any trouble reaching the horizontal that takes gear. The rest of the climb is very much in reach for this little shorty.
By A.wilk Wilk
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 28, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Not a lot of love here for Sente but I think this is a really fun route. Not nearly a classic but still worth your time if you're in the area and this is dry. In Gunks style, a little bit of wingspan helps but like others have said it is not impossible or dangerous if you are vertically challenged.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not sure if anyone else noticed but literally every bolt on this climb cross loads your biners against the rock!! I think it's best to basket the bolt with an alpine draw and clip both biners to your rope to avoid the crossload! Otherwise a fun "Gunks sport climb"
By Systematic
Nov 10, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The flake system at the top of this route sounds pretty hollow. Heads up!

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