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Sensible Shoes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 1,440
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Jan 26, 2008

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Near the top of Sensible Shoes, Technical for sure


This is the second bolt line from the right, on the less than vertical slab before the overhanging wall. Troy Mayr's "Southern California Sport Climbing" guide gives this climb no stars, and it doesn't deserve any, if you're looking for the 5.8 face climb it's supposed to be. Everyone I've talked with assures me that this climb follows the bolt line and not the crack system five or so feet to the right (which feels maybe 5.8) but everyone agrees it's "pretty hard" for a 5.8. I'll say. The move off the ground is harder than 5.8 and the crux, passing just left of the first bolt, is a balancy move on tiny crimps with little for the feet. Move left to the arete to pass the second bolt and conquer the secondary crux: another dicey move on dime edges. From there, pump through the fractured patina, passing one more bolt, to the ledge below the anchor. A great climb if you look at it as a 5.10 crimp fest.

Kudos to the FA team; they must be real stout climbers, that this lead was so easy for them they rated it 5.8! And this isn't another Pinched Rib, where the breaking of one bomber hold could dramatically increase the difficulty level. I felt Sensible Shoes was as hard as any .10c in the area; not a lead for the 5.8 climber. Rappel to descend.


3 bolts, chain anchor

Photos of Sensible Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Williams on the crux of Sensible Shoes (5.10c...
Mike Williams on the crux of Sensible Shoes (5.10c...

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By Chris Asencio
From: Hesperia, CA
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I followed to the left of the bolt line till top out and it definately seemed harder than the 5.8, a good 5.9 face. If you use the features far right it seems more 5.8, but bolts are a little far... Worth doin once.
By BAd
Mar 17, 2013

Yeah, just went back there after years away. 10+ for sure if you go direct. The only 5.8-ish way would be to follow the bottoming crack to the right. By working it from the left and stepping over right once past the second bolt, I'd rate it in the 5.9-ish range, and not easy at that. We did two other 10 a/b's that day and found them QUITE reasonable. Complete and total sandbag at 5.8. Kind of like that route on the Old Woman in Josh that was rated 5.8 BITD. It's rated 10a now. Don't feel bad if this 8 kicks yer ass. It's NOT you.
By C Miller
From: CA
May 9, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did this again after 20+ years and agree with the other comments regarding the grade.

Climbed this two different ways - from the ground direct and staying directly over the bolts which seemed about 5.10 and also the line to the right following the crack and clipping the bolts with the left hand which seemed more in-line with the 5.8 rating although the start was a little harder (5.9).

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