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Senseless Banter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin 1990
Page Views: 1,734
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

Long trad lead with adequate protection. This climbs the left side of the face left of Italian Arete. Face moves and crack moves. When I lead this I lost my 1st piece, and got a little nervous so I placed a piece directly under the flake before the face with the bolt. I didn't put a runner on it and my partner didn't correct me. The rest of the way up the climb it felt like I was pulling an elephant. Man, was I glad to see the top.

Protection 

1 bolt, 1 piton, lots of gear. Bring the small gear especially.


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By John Steiger
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I’ve got to disagree with those who have voted a bomb for this one. Compared to other 5.9 trad routes in BCC, this ranks right up there, IMO, with some great sections of slabby quartize. Even the Ruckmans give it 1 out of 3 stars. The pin was missing when we did it, but decent pro can be found with a modern rack (i.e., microcams, etc.). Good belay from gear on top, with an easy walk to Maudlin’s anchors to descend—35m rap to the ground.

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