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Senile Dementia. 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1150', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 23
Submitted By: USBRIT on May 10, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: A)Crusade 5.9 B)Semile Dementia.5.6


Located near the far end of THe Great White Wall,about 20mins walk south from Three Fingers Canyon .After reaching a pinnacle like formation enter a wash and hike up to the top of the brown limestone wave on the left that is directly below the very prominent massive flake at mid height on the slabs and can be easerly seen from the Three fingers parking area.The name given this climb by the aging FA party after reaching the final pitch realized they had forgotten the drill bits!The descent proved quite difficult.There are no rap anchors.Bushes and down climbing was used for the descent.

P1).Climb up a slab with 5.6 exit moves into a large alcove ,then up the blunt edge on the right to a good ledge and cam belay.200'5.6.
P2).Scramble 4th class to the left to behind the massive flake and continue for about for about 250' to its top,
P3). Straight up the slab above the flake.200'5.3.
P4)Move up right along ledges for about 150'to large crack/grooves system .
P5).Climb a wide groove followed by a good crack to a big ledge no belay.200' 5.5
P6) Scramble up grooves to flake on the skyline at 150' ,then walk to the summit and register.

Descent:- No Rap Anchors. 4th class down the blunt ridge to the south aiming for the wide ledge above pitch 3.A small pine tree was used to rap the last 40' to the ledge. Walk right (north) to top of pitch 3. From another small pine rap to behind the massive flake.(top of P2)4th class down P2 and reverse top part of the first pitch to a small bush in the alcove,use the bush to protect the rest of the down climbing.


Great White Wall ,South of Three Fingers Canyon.


Friends. #0.5 to #3. Slings . Two 60m ropes

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