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Sendero Luminoso (aka Mountaineer's Route) T 

Sendero Luminoso (aka Mountaineer's Route) 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 900', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Eric Wright and Frank Robertson, 2008
Season: Spring - Fall (SE Facing)
Page Views: 1,072
Submitted By: ChrisG George on Sep 8, 2014  with updates from Frank Robertson

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Richie's got space madness.

Description 

This mixed gear/sport route is a great outing if you want an intro climb to the Sandias formation and want a nice view of Ouray as you ascend. We climbed the first 6 pitches and stopped due to rain. The 8th pitch as described in Jason Nelson's book seemed more like the beginning of the walk off and not worth it.

Every pitch was well bolted, and fixed anchors for rappel stations were intelligently placed for both ascent and decent. A little bit of all types of climbing is strewn throughout. Short pitches are great for communication. The cruxes were short as well. There is a 5.9 move here and there, nothing greatly committing nor exposed. Just watch out for loose rock at the tops and between pitches. I recommend rapping off as we did...in the rain.

Location 

Ascend the left side of the Sandias Wall. It's essentially the ridge line. This is fun route to take someone up, minus the loose rock at the belays that is common. The ledges break up the climbing into super easily manageable pitches. We used the Jason Nelson guide and found it adequate. Just remember to go around the corner to the Grey Matter Wall which faces South. The route is on the right side of this wall. We didn't do the 7th or 8th pitch due to rain. The 7th appeared to be the crux pitch.

Protection 

Medium stoppers plus a Light rack up to #3 Camalot. A few quickdraws and extendable slings ideal.


Photos of Sendero Luminoso (aka Mountaineer's Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ouray town views.
Ouray town views.
Rock Climbing Photo: Richie's got the belay.
Richie's got the belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: High quality anchors throughout this climb.
High quality anchors throughout this climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: V-notch belay atop the 6th pitch. The 7th pitch is...
V-notch belay atop the 6th pitch. The 7th pitch is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-route.
Mid-route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor atop the first pitch.
Anchor atop the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of the first pitch.
The top of the first pitch.

Comments on Sendero Luminoso (aka Mountaineer's Route) Add Comment
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By Frank Robertson
From: Ridgway, CO
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Thanks for posting, Chris. P7 is a blast (my favorite), and, while P8 is mostly easy, if you do the 10b direct option, P9 is the crux - exciting, airy, and really caps the route even if you choose the 5.9 original finish. Bolted anchors all the way, so you can rap the route on one 60m rope.
By Ben Alexander
From: Cary, NC
Jun 6, 2015

The walk-off from the top is very easy. It might be quicker than rapping the route. Just amble north and west and up about 500' until you hit the Old Twin Peaks trail.
By Eric Wright
From: Telluride CO.
Oct 17, 2015

We did not post this route, as we wanted to support the sale of Jason Nelson's local guidebook, which continues to be available in Ouray, etc.
It's disturbing to see you have posted a route description about a route you bailed off. You failed to complete the route. You describe the last two pitches as unworthy, though you bailed. Why would anyone post a route description about a climb they did not climb? The route is nine pitches. You only climbed six of those pitches.
You describe the route as a mixed gear/sport route. It's simply a mixed gear route. A 5.9 leader needs a small rack of gear. We left sling material on the anchors originally, and after three years, the animals and the sun had destroyed the nylon.
By ChrisG George
From: Westminster
Oct 22, 2015

Geez, Eric, you seem more spiteful that I didn't send the route than there's useful information. My goal was to provide information on what was there based on what I did. I was forthright and honest about not climbing the last pitch. Did you even see why I didn't finish the route? Perhaps, this was more of a trip report. This is a quality route that is a TRADE route of the area.

You, my friend, have every right to ADD to the VALUE of MP. You ranted. Reread Guideline #3.

I DID PURCHASE a guidebook. Now, perhaps if you see the benefit of not posting the last pitch. Perhaps, if you change the way you see things, I will change. It will get lots of traffic, and guides and visitors will want more information. So, perhaps someone ought to go buy the guidebook to better inform themselves prior to leading off into the woods.

I am not an MP guidebook printer. I BUY guidebooks. In fact, I personally know the publishers of several climbing guides. More so, I know of many crags which will not be posted on MP nor will they be in guidebooks, and I do not share that information online.

Perhaps, you be best served to not read MP.com, since it so upsets you, my dear.
By Frank Robertson
From: Ridgway, CO
Jun 23, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

A #3 Camalot, maybe the #2 Camalot to belay in the crack below and left of P7, a little blue Camalot or yellow Alien, the red Alien and 8 or so quicks are all you need besides kit to clip the two-bolt anchors and a 60m rope. 3-4 hours up and down - a series of aerial boulder problems linked by a ridge with great views.

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