|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jason Stevens on Jul 31, 2010|
|Comments on Celsa Vaca||Add Comment|
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By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
Apr 8, 2017
The anchors were a little weird on this route from the beginning. People kept stealing the carabiner off the chain which made the cold-shut out of alignment. I pulled the anchor station, left one bolt with a hanger as a lead bolt and moved the anchor another 10' up the wall. It is now immediately under the overhang. The bolts are Fixe glue-ins and I installed steel Metolius captive Gym carabiners.
NOTE TO GREEDY AND LOW IQ FOLKS WHO PILFER ROUTE HARDWARE:
IF CARABINERS ARE ATTACHED TO THE ANCHOR STATION IT IS NOT ABANDONED CLIMBER TACKLE. THEY ARE TO MAKE YOUR LIFE 1) EASIER AND 2) SAFER – BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE TO UNTIE AND THREAD CHAINS.
TOPROPE ROUTES THROUGH YOUR OWN QUICKDRAWS, EXTENDING CONSIDERABLY THE LIFE OF THE PERMANENT ANCHORS. WHEN YOU ARE DONE WITH THE ROUTE SIMPLY CLIP THE ANCHORS AND LOWER.