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Seldom Seen  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Mark Thesing, Paul Anikis
Page Views: 1,031
Submitted By: Seth Murphy on Oct 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Top of the crux about to start the traverse to bet...


Crux is the first 20 feet, marginal gear on 5.6/5.7 climbing, don't fall through this section.


Begin 20 ft right of Scuttle. Climb the face to a small/thin right facing corner. Climb to an obvious ledge, traverse right to left facing corner and flakes.


Standard Seneca rack.

Photos of Seldom Seen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My daughter Ariel on a 5.11a variation we made up ...
BETA PHOTO: My daughter Ariel on a 5.11a variation we made up ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Seldom Seen
BETA PHOTO: Seldom Seen

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By climbamt
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is an easy walk off to the climbers left- Rappelling from the big pine at the top of Scuttle is damaging the tree. When the tree goes, the ground above this climb is going to erode quickly.
By Mark Thesing
From: Central Indiana
Aug 17, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I don't understand the R rating unless it has something to do with it not taking cams easily. I can’t say if that is the case or not since I put the route up in 1984 (I think) and at the time I had very few cams and only used them when really needed. My memory of the climb is it protected very well with small to medium size stoppers and hexes. When I established the route I didn’t fell protection was lacking at any point.
By Seth Murphy
Aug 21, 2014

Fully agreed Mark. I just think that this climb might be more eye-opening for the new 5.7 climber then say, Green Wall, SJM, or West Pole, which readily accept fantastic protection when ever you feel the need to place it.

But again, I agree, probably not R, and probably not 5.7.
By cliffmama
Aug 4, 2015

We did some variations on top rope that made for interesting harder ascents. At the bottom, climb the thin face just to the right of the crack, group consensus 5.11a. Near the top, climb the face to the left of the route, group consensus 5.10a. YMMV.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Jun 12, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The pro in the lower section (the crux really) is a little thin but it's there. I recommend some brass/small stoppers. Small cams would take up space where you want your fingers. You shouldn't need anything larger than a #2 BD C4. There's also a bit of suspect rock after that initial crux corner. Altogether a very nice climb in the Slabs.

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