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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alex Caitlin and David Dangerfield
Page Views: 1,366
Submitted By: kyber on Jan 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Anna on Selam


a good long warmup route with nice movements on easy holds..


the small little area right before don q.


lots of draws, probably 14 to 16. also make sure you have a 70 with a knot in the end and can down climb the first bolt or just take two ropes. another option would be to rappel to the anchors of flying scorpion.

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By Michael G
Jan 7, 2009

A tricky 10a. Note: a 70 meter rope will NOT get you back to the ground!
By Sam Brotherton
From: Los Angeles, CA
Feb 15, 2010

a surprisingly good climb - sustained, thoughtful 10a moves to the top. it's totally worth the two raps it takes to get down.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 20, 2011

I love this climb. All 140 feet! you need two ropes to get down or lower to the the anchors on Flying Scorpian. A lot of great moves on this climb. Edges, crimps,'s all there!
From: Potrero Chico, MEX
Nov 10, 2015

Rapped with a 70 just fine
By Sherie Lou
From: Washington, DC
Feb 6, 2016

Don't miss the rap rings above Flying Scorpion. Rapped with a 70m rope and had to untie and downclimb the last bit (about 3-4 feet?)
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Feb 15, 2016

Great pitch. Relatively hard for EPC 5.10a rating

My 70m mammut infinity did NOT reach the ground. Belayer climbed up with knotted end in the belay device so i could lower to around the first bolt, then solo down climb from there.

Knot your rope!
By Ryan Stefani
Nov 29, 2016

There are some conflicting comments, so I'll add my $0.02 so folks can make their own decision.

When my 99# girlfriend rappelled on a 70m rope, she made it to the 4th class ledge about 4' off the deck. The guys that climbed it after us had a 70m rope, but only made it to the first bolt on rappel.

YMMV. And so may your rope length.
By M HawkMan
Dec 18, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

EXCELLENT ROUTE. This route is as good as any .10 you can find in the Potrero.

It is very sustained. I would call it closer to .10b because of how continuous all the moves are for a long way.

Our Maxim 70m worked fine although if you have a Mammut 70m you won't make it. for some reason they are a bit shorter, or maybe our maxim is longer than 70m.

If you are concerned, just rap climbers right to the anchors for Flying Scorpions just beside the ledge with all the plants on it and break it into 2 rappels.

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