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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz, Oct. 1987
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: geoff georges on Jul 27, 2015

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I was not aware of this route till I rapped off of MX. It looked good and it is excellent. Gets 2 stars in the book, deserves more. The fist size described was making me worry, but there are hand jams where it looks wide. Because the columns lean north and this is on the left side of a column, with MX on the right side, it is overhanging the whole way, with 2 roofs. The 1st roof is a crux, the 2nd one is bypassed on the left. Save some energy for the top out, gets even more overhanging and pumpy even if easier holds are there.
Tape gloves or handjammies recommended, very handjam dependent getting through 1st roof.


left of MX and off width crack.


double rack to 3", and a #4 could be placed midway in a wide part. I moved #3 camalots up with me, but there are other sizes to be found. As with other Tieton routes, I like to have a set of nuts prehung on quickdraws. Shares anchor with MX. 70m rope gets you back to big ledge.

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