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South America Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Border Crossing T 
Fern Crack T 
Flakes Alive T 
Good Book, The T 
Horcrux, The S 
Layback T 
Little Orphan Angry T 
South America Flake  T 

Little Orphan Angry 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 9/6/16
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: Glenn Cilley on Oct 14, 2011

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Control is needed to keep the red water from comin...

Description 

A much better, Harder, and more interesting climb than it looks from the ground. The 20 feet of business climbing is serious and technical involving a great variety of tricks.

Start by scampering on to the large ledge below the bolted face. gather yourself and when you find your moment... Move up in to the steep section on good hold that get worse as you climb. As you find yourself looking up in to the crack from below, figure out your plan and get to the jams with difficulty. The crack is very sharp, I had to tape my hands and key fingers so that I could lose minimal flesh. The tough thinner crack leads to perfect hands and fists and eventually a tricky but not overly challenging exit on to the slab above. A 2 bolt anchor lies above.

This route can seep when things are wet but once I scrubbed it it stayed pretty dry most days.

Location 

Start just right of Layback by scrambling up on to the large ledge below the face with 2 obvious bolts leading to a short crack.

Protection 

1 pin
2 bolts
and a couple/few cams from #1-#3


Photos of Little Orphan Angry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: She is angry, but she's worth it
She is angry, but she's worth it
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the second bolt as the tough stuff begins
Clipping the second bolt as the tough stuff begins
Rock Climbing Photo: A bit higher up on the route. There are good feet ...
A bit higher up on the route. There are good feet ...
Rock Climbing Photo: two bolts just right of Layback..Enlarge the photo
BETA PHOTO: two bolts just right of Layback..Enlarge the photo

Comments on Little Orphan Angry Add Comment
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By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Oct 17, 2011

I don't think this has seen an FA yet. Much harder than 5.9 that's for sure.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 6, 2016

After a few days of working on it, today I managed to send this old seemingly abandoned project.
I gave 'er a name, took a stab at the grade and updated the description.

The old "Seeping Crack 5.9?" description is no longer. Turned out to be harder and way more entertaining than it looked :)
By Michael Z.
Sep 8, 2016

Nice work Lee! We saw the chalk on this over the weekend and were guessing you'd been on it. It was cool to at least get an idea of how it went from the tick marks. Not so straight forward as one might think from the ground. Is that seem to the left next? Looks less painful at least.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2016

You're on to me! haha
yeah, Little Orphan Angry was a real puzzle to put together.

That seam is at the top of my wish list. It is painful but the crux is finding it dry ;)