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Happy Hour Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are We Not Men T,TR 
Are We Not Robots T,TR 
Baby Aliens T 
Bad Sneakers TR 
Bent Faith T 
Big Spit, The T 
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
Hands Off T 
I, Robot T,TR 
Last Call T,TR 
Last Laugh T,S,TR 
Left Side T 
Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
Rush Hour T,TR 
Seein' Double TR 
Skid Row T 
Teetotaler T,S,TR 
Tipsey T,TR 
Twofers T,TR 
Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 

Seein' Double 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,961
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Jul 11, 2004  with updates from Mark E Dixon

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About midway up.

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  • Description 

    This route climbs the arete right of Dementia. Great position and terrific movement are marred by a slightly contrived start on the arete. The best opening climbs straight up the arete with your chest at the bolts. It starts with the left hand in the Dementia corner for the first move or two.

    Start 10 feet right of the Dementia/Malign start. Climb past 2 bolts and angle up and left to the roof at the base of the Dementia corner. Climb straight up the arete. Going straight up at the last bolt is slopey 12c (desperate in summer). Cutting right for a move at the second to last bolt and then moving back left again past the last bolt lowers the grade to easy 5.11.


    8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #2 and/or #2.5 Friend may be useful to protect the moves to the 3rd bolt.

    Per Mark E Dixon: it appears that the bolts were removed and the holes were patched.

    Photos of Seein' Double Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up the arete.
    Midway up the arete.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline starting up Seein' Double. There are...
    Christa Cline starting up Seein' Double. There are...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the arete.
    Starting the arete.

    Comments on Seein' Double Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2015
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 13, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Formerly a TR problem, now leadable. Does that make these retrobolts?
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 13, 2004

    Seems like this one gets pretty close to Cheers.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Jul 29, 2004

    Should have been left a TR problem. poor choice to bolt this one....

    Thrill of the Chaise (AKA Cheers) is not much of a thrill anymore.

    I should have had my wrench with me....
    By Chris Archer
    Jul 29, 2004

    Darren, Cheers retrobolted an existing trad route. Why would you consider that a more valid route?
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 20, 2004

    Routes like this make me think all climbing areas should be regulated as in Eldo or the Flatirons. Boulder Canyon is an uninspiring mess.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 20, 2004

    More regulated climbing? Oh yes, that's what we need.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Aug 20, 2004

    Chris, Thrill of the Chaise has only two bolts in it and didn't encroach on any other route. I didn't know if it was a trad route and I don't really care. It seems like your bolts retro it even more.... Now, while climbing Thrill, instead of only having those two bolts for the route, one could also clip all of your bolts. Maybe this is why you called it Seeing Double....
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 20, 2004

    More regulated climbing is where we're headed. It's inevitable. Theres only going to be more people climbing and more people making impacts like this route. More regulation will happen.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Aug 20, 2004

    I would have to agree with the above comments. This route doubles the bolt count on any other route at the crag. The lower potion of the route is easily lead on trad gear 3ft to the left. The 3rd bolt can be clipped from Dementia. The climbing looks interesting, but it probably should not have been bolted with 8 bolts.
    By Ray Snead
    Aug 20, 2004

    A historical note, since I was involved in the FA of Cheers with Rick Leitner and Kent Lugbill. We didn't knowingly retrobolt Thrill - we had no idea that the route had ever been done. We also did not drill the anchor bolts; these were apparently added later by local guides.

    A good route worth the two bolts, I think.
    By TBlom
    Aug 21, 2004

    I've always enjoyed "Thrill". I had no idea it was a trad route, but I usually augment the route with a few cams (it's pretty exciting if you only bring quickdraws). This new route seems a bit close to "Thrill", kind of like some of the grid bolting at Sport Park. I've noticed that most of the bolts at Happy Hour see very little traffic, as most people there choose to do the trad routes instead. I will most likely enjoy the route, all the same.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 7, 2004

    Beware any route that says 11a or 12c.
    By TBlom
    Jun 20, 2005

    Tried to toprope this line and kept running into holds on "Thrill of the Chaise". I wonder how many ascents a year this route sees. Bolts 2.5 feet away diagonally from bolts on "Thrill" kind of just cluttered up a good trad/mixed area. Can't wait to lead Dementia with some bolts clipped though.
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Jun 26, 2007

    I guess I have not been up here in a while.

    Sorry Chris, I gotta say I think this is a poorly considered addition to the cliff.
    By s.kimball
    Jan 13, 2010

    Don't be sorry, Steve, it's Bolted Canyon.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Oct 7, 2010

    Just climbed Dementia for the first time today and was wondering why all these bolts where within reach? Total squeeze job!
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Mar 15, 2013

    This is fun, but it feels almost impossible in the 2nd to last bolt area. The old Rolofson guide calls this section 13a.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Mar 8, 2015
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Direct at 2nd to last bolt is balancy but not 5.12, or at least not hard 5.12 if you have a good wingspan.
    I still don't like the idea that this got bolted. It was always a nice TR, now it's a squeeze job with bolts clip-able from previously existing routes.
    By Mark Hanna
    Apr 1, 2015

    FYI, as of 3/31/15 all the bolts on this climb are gone. They were there about a month ago. Anyone know what happened to them?

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