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Security 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ron Halka, John Cotter, May 2nd 1983
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Steve Rowen on Mar 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The base of Security is the left side of rope

  • Respect designated paths !
  • NCC Gatineau Park restrictions MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Located between Al on the Run and Neruda. It has been bolted, chopped and rebolted.

    Location 

    Located between Al on the Run and Neruda

    Protection 

    2 bolts and gear


    Comments on Security Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ian Dibbs
    Aug 31, 2014

    Short but tough, 25 ft, may need a little trad to go with bolts. about a 10.b
    By Jfaub
    From: Ottawa, On
    Sep 18, 2014
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

    Just sent this route today, and it's totally classic. Much taller than the 25ft suggested here, more like 50-55.

    Gear Beta : 2 QD's, a .5 BD X4 (for the pod before the first bolt) and a .2 BD X4 in a small crack out left (if you want to protect the topout moves).

    Definitely some sections where a fall would be best avoided (clipping the first bolt) ; also, there is huge whipper potential towards the top if you blow the slightly easier but sustained face climbing. That would a be a really big fall, but safe (probably?).

    This might be 5.11-, (V2 after the first bolt?) but 5.10d is also fair.

    This is what the 2008 Climbing around Ottawa topo has to say :

    «Recently, a key hold broke down to about half it's original size, which makes the route considerably harder.»

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