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Security Blanket 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Yum-Yum, '98
Season: northeast facing
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: greg k on Apr 6, 2014

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

sufficient yet sometimes thought-provoking gear, balance-intensive moves and calf-draining stemming characterize this line. carefully navigate loose blocks on ledge up and right from new ferrari anchor before last 20 ft. to just 5.13 anchors. not listed in new (Robertson) guidebook but certainly too obvious of a line to have not been already plucked

Location 

muy enjoyable natural line that snakes be/ the bolted aretes of new ferrari and just 5.13. shares new ferrari start.

Protection 

standard rack w/ emphasis on small
316 steel anchors (2007)


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Apr 7, 2014

The bolts of Just 5.13 do seem to indicate a line to the right of the crack. However, I found that the only way to climb the bolted line was to stem up the dihedral, using the crack for holds, and clip far out to the right. This was a definite and obvious natural line, and have been meaning to go back and do it on gear.

Was the gear at the top sketchy at all?
By greg k
Apr 7, 2014

the gear at the top was small (00 c3 and yellow x4) but in good rock. the cruxes are getting off the ground, and again after leaving the initial dihedral. definitely worth doing, go check it out!
By greg k
May 6, 2014

found this climb listed in yum-yum's old guide. the start shown there is the same as for "just 5.13". the start described here (see above) is harder (and better)
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Jun 29, 2014

Also known as "the best climb in the world" ;)

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