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Section 20 T 

Section 20 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Season: Summer
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Michael Shang on May 30, 2017

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Section 20


Pitch 1 (5.7): Climb the chimney to a ledge beneath a knobby ladder. Belay here. (100')

Pitch 2 (5.6): Go straight up fun and exposed knob climbing to an arête. Then follow the arête up on knobs to a large sloping ledge. (150')

Pitch 3 (5.7): Climb a short crack, followed by a low-angle section, to another short crack leading into a dihedral to a roof. Exit right around the roof and belay at a big sandy ledge with a tree. (150')

Pitch 4 (5.5): Crawl through manzanita into a large cave. Chimney your way up the cave, slinging large chockstones for pro through a hole at the top. (100')

Unrope and scramble up and left to the base of the reddish Russet Wall. From here, several variations from 5.7-5.10 exist. The leftmost chimney (5.7) is described.

Pitch 5 (5.6): Climb up the chossy chimney followed by a wide crack with good face holds to a manzanita-covered ledge. Belay at the base of the Russett Wall.

Pitch 6 (5.6): Again, several variations exist on this pitch. The variation described ascends the wide corner with many knobs on the right side. Climb up a chimney, exiting right under the large block at the top. Continue up to belay in a large triangular flake.

Pitch 7 (5.6): Step over a chasm around the corner to the left of the large flake. Climb one of the splitter hand cracks to a ledge below the summit.


Doubles to 3". Many long slings. All gear anchors.

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