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Secret Weapon 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Doug Heinrich and Bill Boyle
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Rob Phillips on Jun 13, 2014  with updates from John Ross

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a long route! Plan on some awkwardness in the initial corner. The route then wraps around to the right and out of sight of your belayer. Climb the beautiful face to the left of Isotoner. The two routes eventually merge for the final moves and finish at the same anchor.

Location 

It's the first route about 15' to the left of the blocky steps that lead to the west facing wall. Starts near the bottom of the small scree slope on the north facing side of the division wall. Look for a bolt line following a small dihedral/roof that trends to the right.

Protection 

Option 1: 14 bolts to chain anchors for the original line that goes right after the second bolt.

Option 2: 13 bolts to chain anchors for the variation that moves left after the second bolt.

Shares the chains with Isotoner Moaner. A minimum of a 60m rope is a must to get off safely.


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By Leify Guy
Sep 5, 2014

Bolts everywhere! I swear there are four possible lines to follow off the first bolt described for this route... Maybe we just need DK to release his guide book or something cause this wall is a grid of bolts.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 2, 2015

Pretty easy climbing to a very distinct and tricky crux, followed by a long, taxing slog to the final roof, ending with a beached whale mantle to the anchors. I pity the fool who blows that mantle.
By R O'Connor
Jun 14, 2015

13 bolts + chains. Chossy up top.
By Todd H
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 25, 2016

The left option has good climbing on really nice jug pockets before you traverse right to merge with the original line at the crux. I didn't do the right option but it looks more direct.

Very long, with a wide variety of moves. Rock quality is as good or better than most in the area. One of the best climbs on the wall in my opinion.

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