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Secret In The Cellar 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: PSobik, JBaker Sept 2015
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: jbak on Sep 27, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Super-steep roped bouldering. A sweet little gem of a problem.

Recommend that belayer use the keeper bolt to avoid getting pulled into the fall line. A 3-foot sling (or chain of draws) is about right.

Stick clip the 1st bolt is okay, 2nd is cheating.

Location 

The LEFT-HAND route in The Cellar, a 45-degree overhang about 120 feet right of The Pub.

Protection 

5 bolts and Mussys. Plus a keeper bolt for belayer. (3.75 x 3/8 SS)

2nd bolt is 5 x 1/2 SS


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By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 23, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It's short and crazy-sharp, but every single move on this climb is fantastic!
By Luke Bertelsen
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 24, 2015

"...short and crazy sharp."

This describes so much of Mt.Lemmon climbing, but it sure is nice weather out there this time of year!
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

In all fairness there is only one hold on this climb that qualifies as "crazy sharp" -- a juggy flake between the third and fourth bolts. One of my climbing partners remarked that while it would be hard of fall there if you tried, if you somehow did pitch, it would take your fingers clean off...I think he was joking
By Josie
Jul 6, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Short, but totally worth doing--Awesome holds, and as mentioned earlier, cool moves from bottom to top!

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