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Secret Handshake  

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Michael Shaffer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 728
Submitted By: Nezbit on Nov 16, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Start to finish

Description 

On-Sight Beta:
Climb the arete from a sit-start.

Flash Beta:
Climb the arete from a sit-start with both hands on the long vertical edge. Paste the right foot on, engage core, and go. Using the arete as an intermediate while moving up to the tooth seems unlikely but helps more than a little.

Location 

Left arete on Boulder 1

Protection 

Pad


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Show which comments
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 16, 2013

So glad someone finally went out and did this thing! Nice work.
By Nezbit
Nov 16, 2013

Thanks Chris! My buddy and I had a great time at the Barrel Boulders--good rock and good problems. Props to the crew that found them.
By Fidi N.
From: Iowa City
Nov 21, 2013

Scoped this bad boy out the other day!
Looks awesome, can't wait to try. Nice FA Michael!
By Bill Wendt
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Jun 16, 2014

What! V5!? hahaha nice. I have done V8s that are easier than this thing. Well at least easier than the beta I was using to work it. I WANT THE SECRET BETA! Nice work man
By Nezbit
Jun 16, 2014

Hey Bill!

Typical of me to be a bagger. Most of that is because of the area(s) I came up in climbing, but in this case, if I did sandbag the rating, a lot of that is due to the fact that I was coming back to climbing after a year off and didn't really have a sense of where I was at. At any rate, I tried to rank the climb with others in the area. I did not feel that the climb clocked in with Sandstone Violence, Highly Executed, or either of the lower Cannons variations. But there did seem to be similarity with Grounded For Life and All In The Family.

Detailed Beta:

If you click on the photo and enlarge the image you can get a good look at the climb. I started in the same place you and your buddy did in the video: sat on the ground with a right foot pasted onto a decent smear and hands stacked on the low vertical crimp. Instead of lurching up to that miserable tooth, though, I used a mediocre right-hand sloper on the arete as an intermediate and bumped (my buddy Andy figured out this beta). That little sucker helped me considerably. Don't know what it will do for others. So, from the right hand intermediate it's a bump to the tooth. Just above the tooth there is a vertical crimp (not the long edge a bit higher!). I caught that with the left and moved the right hand onto a little sloping bump on the face about level with the tooth. It's been awhile but I am fairly certain all that was done from the same right foot and it is significantly less awkward to move the feet up with the hands in that position. With the feet up, it's straight to the top. The long vertical above the left hand that is chalked up in the image is not necessary for the move to the top... But I guess that all depends on body types and climbing styles.

I called it The Secret Handshake for the tight hand moves led into and left behind by a big move.

Hope that helps! After you go out to the Dodge next and crush this boulder problem register your grade on the page and eventually the true grade will emerge!

Hope to run into you sometime!

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