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Secret Garden

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Secret Garden Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.57234, -111.77322 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 40,908
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: SLC Gymrat on Mar 26, 2003
This Afternoon

83° | 67°

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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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christina durtschi on the offwidth just off the tr...

  • UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The Secret Garden is the home of some of the hardest problems in the canyon, classic moderates, and a few projects that will make the first ascentionist famous for sure. The rock is high quality and it is a good place to warm up or burn out. All of the problems on the warm up boulder are very good and there are tons of eliminates to get your session started. Twisted (V4) is the classic moderate of the area and very worth doing. Lance's Dihedral (v6) is also a classic, try the Bear Hug Arete (V8) and find out what sand bagging really means. The v10 circuit Copperhead, Mr. Mom, All Thumbs, and Shingles are some of the best in the state. Also, if you are really feeling strong, you can give Bully (V11/12) a couple burns. For better beta and an online guide check out or wait until spring, two guide books will be coming out.

    Getting There 

    Park in the Little Cottonwood Park n' Ride lot. Locate the climber's trail that starts in the northeast most corner of the lot, directly left of the bathroom. From here follow the trail up and east until you reach your desired sub-area.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 3.1 miles from here

    41 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Secret Garden

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Secret Garden:
    Appollo   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   Goldy Area
    The Offwidth   V0 4     Boulder   Goldy Area
    Direct North Face of Shothole   V0 4     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
    Space   V0 4     Boulder   Tiger Stripe Boulder
    Easy Arete   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 20'   All Thumbs Boulder
    Where Have the Holds Gone   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
    The Scoop   V1 5     Boulder   The Block
    Secret Garden Arete   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Copperhead Boulder
    Edges   V2 5+     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   Goldy Area
    Cynthia's Arete   V2-3 5+     Boulder   The Block
    Old School   V3 6A     Boulder   The Block
    Dan's Problem   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 13'   All Thumbs Boulder
    Go Right   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
    Twisted   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Copperhead Boulder
    Flying Carpet   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   Goldy Area
    Shingles Stand Start   V4+ 6B+     Boulder   Tiger Stripe Boulder
    Lances Dihedral   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Copperhead Boulder
    Bear Hug   V8 7B     Boulder, 14'   Copperhead Boulder
    Copperhead   V9 7C     Boulder, 10'   Copperhead Boulder
    All Thumbs   V10 7C+     Boulder, 8'   All Thumbs Boulder
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Secret Garden

    Featured Route For Secret Garden
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tons of fun

    Secret Garden Arete V2 5+  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Copperhead Boulder
    I don't like bouldering very much but even I can admit this problem is really fun. Start up the arete using the drill scars and an occasional left foot smear or right foot heel hook. This problem isn't very tricky or sequential; it's just a matter of working your way up and daring to go higher and higher. The topout is an airy and exciting mantle. As soon as you get on top you'll want to go do it again!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Comments on Secret Garden Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Laronicus Lehmanold
    From: Salt Lake, UT
    Mar 11, 2016
    A friend of mine lost his wallet last night. He climbed at the boulders near the park & ride. Please send me a message if you found it. Thank you!

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