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Secret Garden

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Secret Garden Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.57234, -111.77322 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 36,049
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: SLC Gymrat on Mar 26, 2003


56° | 40°

57° | 40°

64° | 41°

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76° | 51°
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christina durtschi on the offwidth just off the tr...

UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. MORE INFO >>>


The Secret Garden is the home of some of the hardest problems in the canyon, classic moderates, and a few projects that will make the first ascentionist famous for sure. The rock is high quality and it is a good place to warm up or burn out. All of the problems on the warm up boulder are very good and there are tons of eliminates to get your session started. Twisted (V4) is the classic moderate of the area and very worth doing. Lance's Dihedral (v6) is also a classic, try the Bear Hug Arete (V8) and find out what sand bagging really means. The v10 circuit Copperhead, Mr. Mom, All Thumbs, and Shingles are some of the best in the state. Also, if you are really feeling strong, you can give Bully (V11/12) a couple burns. For better beta and an online guide check out or wait until spring, two guide books will be coming out.

Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood Park n' Ride lot. Locate the climber's trail that starts in the northeast most corner of the lot, directly left of the bathroom. From here follow the trail up and east until you reach your desired sub-area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Secret Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Secret Garden:
Appollo   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   Goldy Area
The Offwidth   V0 4     Boulder   Goldy Area
Direct North Face of Shothole   V0 4     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
Space   V0 4     Boulder   Tiger Stripe Boulder
Easy Arete   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 20'   All Thumbs Boulder
Where Have the Holds Gone   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
The Scoop   V1 5     Boulder   The Block
Secret Garden Arete   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Copperhead Boulder
Edges   V2 5+     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   Goldy Area
Cynthia's Arete   V2-3 5+     Boulder   The Block
Old School   V3 6A     Boulder   The Block
Dan's Problem   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 13'   All Thumbs Boulder
Go Right   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
Twisted   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Copperhead Boulder
Flying Carpet   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   Goldy Area
Shingles Stand Start   V4+ 6B+     Boulder   Tiger Stripe Boulder
Lances Dihedral   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Copperhead Boulder
Bear Hug   V8 7B     Boulder, 14'   Copperhead Boulder
Copperhead   V9 7C     Boulder, 10'   Copperhead Boulder
All Thumbs   V10 7C+     Boulder, 8'   All Thumbs Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Secret Garden

Featured Route For Secret Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up on Lance's Dihedral

Lances Dihedral V6 7A  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Copperhead Boulder
Starts in the obvious dihedral on the Copperhead on a flat shelf and a fingertip layback. This problem has a sit start variant at V7 and a V8 variant that moves up and left off of the right hand under-cling....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Secret Garden Add Comment
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By Laronicus Lehmanold
From: Salt Lake, UT
Mar 11, 2016
A friend of mine lost his wallet last night. He climbed at the boulders near the park & ride. Please send me a message if you found it. Thank you!

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