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Second Tier

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Clipboard Area 
Middle Wall 
Tarot Wall 
Three Dihedrals 
Wall of the Dead 

Second Tier Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.99889, -105.41204 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 60,731
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006  with updates from NickWilder Wilder-ap and 1 more

55° | 33°

44° | 27°

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38° | 26°

30° | 23°
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note:...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


The Second Tier is home to most of Avalon's routes, and it's where you'll find the biggest crowds on a busy day. The base of many climbs here is badly eroding with lots of loose rock. It's a bad place to bring dogs, which knock rocks down on belayers below them.

This tier is complex and is split into various parts. See this photo for details.

From left to right:

Tarot Wall - on the left side above the First Tier. Mostly 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a) and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Popular.

Three Dihedrals - Above and right of Tarot Wall. Only a few climbs here, including the popular Dominator (10b).

The Clipboard Area - just right of the Three Dihedrals area. Three quality routes: Chairman of the Board (11d), The Clipboard (11b), & Stigmata (10a).

The Middle Wall - right of the Clipboard Area. Has the classic Strange Science (11c) and Free Fall (12a), and the moderate slab routes Incline Club (7+) and Tomb of Sorrows (9). Popular.

The Wall of the Dead - above and right of the Middle Wall. Four routes, including Dead Can Dance (9) and Dead Again (10c).

Getting There 

Head up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt trail starts at the top of the talus. Very soon the trail splits: the left branch heads to Tarot Wall and Three Dihedrals; the right branch continues up the hill toward the Middle Wall, Clipboard, and Wall of the Dead. See each area for more detailed info.

You can also reach Tarot Wall by continuing up left past the First Tier; this is convenient if you started your day by climbing there.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

39 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Second Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Second Tier:
Incline Club   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Middle Wall
Dead Can Dance   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Wall of the Dead
The Tower   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Tarot Wall
Stigmata   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Clipboard Area
Wheel of Fortune   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Tarot Wall
Dead Again   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Wall of the Dead
Lust   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tarot Wall
Dominator   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Three Dihedrals
Supernatural   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Middle Wall
The Clipboard   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Clipboard Area
The Devil   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Tarot Wall
Strange Science   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Middle Wall
Chairman of the Board   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Clipboard Area
Free Fall   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Wall
Ripcord   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Wall
The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tarot Wall
Fapanese Direct   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tarot Wall
Goat F***er   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   Tarot Wall
Earth Angel   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tarot Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Second Tier

Featured Route For Second Tier
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Goldstein below the crux.

Strange Science 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle Wall
I'll stick my neck out and give Strange Science three stars (at least by Boulder Canyon standards). The climb is pretty obvious as you hike up the faint trail to Avalon. The route follows a line of small flakes up the center of a beautiful forty-foot high scooped face, a pleasingly natural and independent line. The right arete, Free Fall, is bolted and (5.12a?) has a steep bouldery look, with a seam and closely-spaced bolts. Right again is a steep, short face then a short, scruffy,...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Second Tier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper ...
BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
BETA PHOTO: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.

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