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Second Stanza 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Lawrence, Chuck Sproull - 1968. FFA: Bob Mitchell, Steve Longenecker, Roy Davis - 1970
Page Views: 5,624
Submitted By: Sam Adams on Oct 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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One last throw and your out!

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Funky opening moves into large corner and stacked overhangs.

P1 - Climb a left-facing flake to a ledge. 5.6, 50'
P2 - Continue up a wide corner to a belay stance below a roof. 5.7, 70'
P3 - Move up left to a notch in the roof; pull the roof and continue up and right to the tree ledge of My Route. 5.8+, 60'
P4 - Finish on the last pitch of My Route. 5.4, 40'


North side of Table Rock; starts on a ledge at the top of a gully about 200' right of Cave Route.


Standard Table Rock rack; some big gear is needed on P2.

Photos of Second Stanza Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 roof.
P3 roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2's fun, easy, technical corner chimney.
P2's fun, easy, technical corner chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route's crux roof.  Lots of fun and exposure.
The route's crux roof. Lots of fun and exposure.

Comments on Second Stanza Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 28, 2017
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 8, 2009

If you can ignore the sandbag, this is the best multi at Table Rock. Each pitch is so unique with good pro. All of the pitches are exciting and worth doing. Much better than its neighbor White Lightning.
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Jun 15, 2009

I disagree that this is better than White Lightning. Pitches 1 and 3 feature awkward, often dirty climbing, the last pitch is really just the last pitch of My Route, and, as you said, the crux move is way harder than 5.8, making the route inconsistent. White Lightning, to my mind, has interesting moves all the way until you start the traverse on P2, and has rock of generally better quality.

Acknowledging that every person will be attracted to different things in routes, I'll say this: if you climb 5.8, climb both and decide yourself.
By ziggy
Nov 17, 2009

good route. 1st pitch felt as hard as the second. Make sure you are up for the task before tackling the first pitch, definitely some no-fall zones up there (maybe not ground fall, but an ugly fall all the same). The fixed gear that protects the crux on pitch 3 seems sketchy, I would back it up.
By J-Wright
May 2, 2011

Climbed 5/1/2011. Linked #1&2 easily with a 70m. Had a blast - each pitch seems stiff for it's grade. Fixed pin still in situ at p3 crux, but I wouldn't (didn't) bother clipping it. My fav route @ table so far.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Aug 29, 2011

You can also do the first pitch of On Misty's Edge (5.9 P1) to the P1 ledge of Second Stanza. This is a much more aesthetic start, but harder. Takes better pro than the normal P1. This starts just to the right of Second Stanza in a shallow left facing corner.
By Rick Carpenter
From: Kenai, AK
Aug 2, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

hahaha yeah this is not 5.8+! Still a fun-ish route, I'd start on mistys edge but why not finish on it as well. Second is a very fun lead w the direct start though.
By Jackson vermeulen
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree that the 3rd pitch roof is sandbagged at 5.8+, but once you find the right holds it's not too bad. All the other moves felt significantly easier.

I linked the 2nd and 3rd pitches for one excellent long pitch of corner and roof climbing with great exposure. Double ropes were very nice for this as rope drag is definitely an issue.
By Curtis Baird
May 23, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

This route is definitely sandbagged. Both the first and second pitches felt 5.8 to me and the third pitch crux felt like a solid 5.10a roof. Funky moves with interesting climbing on each pitch. Larger pieces can be used on P1 and P2 but are not necessary if you don't mind a bit of runout. There are two fixed nuts at the P1 belay. Overall this is a great route but not for someone who is just starting to lead 5.8s. All trad so difficult to rap if you don't want to continue. If your comfortable with leading some weird moves and a awesome roof it's worth doing!
By Adam Fleming
From: Moab, Utah
Mar 19, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

p1 - There's a slightly sketchy move where you have to move from the left of a large block, to face climbing it, to standing on it. Definitely heady for a 5.6 leader, but the jugs are there.

p2 - The money pitch! Great jams and stemming. There's even a no-hands rest! Keep going after you exit the dihedral and stay right, you'll find a trustworthy piton where you can make your anchor.

p3 - A one move wonder. Other commenters have talked about the questionable fixed pin, but there's a solid placement (#.4 if I remember correctly) right next to it, so nothing to worry about. The move is a committing one, but really isn't that physically difficult (5.8+ for sure) since your foot is solid and there's jugs to be found. Careful pulling on the further jugs; there's a large LOOSE BLOCK that moves slightly when you grab/stand on it! It's big enough that it'll probably stay put, but I didn't like relying completely on it. Still, not the most comforting thing to feel after you just pulled that move.

p4 - Smooth sailing on My Route.
By Rick Carpenter
From: Kenai, AK
May 25, 2017
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This is literally a urine soaked turd of a climb covered in bird feces. The only reason anyone should have to be under this one is to start "on misty edge"
By Russ Keane
May 28, 2017

All the comments above are right on.... even the one about it being a urine/turd-fest. It's dirty, but there are some great sections of climbing. The major problem is the vegetation on P1. Giant shrub in the way, and a huge tree. There are some slime/seepage issues on P3 as well, but it's manageable. The route needs more traffic I suppose. Another problem is rope drag. It was really bad on P1 and on P3 due to zig-zagging and traversing. Overall kind of a weird, adventurous climb that's worth doing once. Here's my grade impression:

P1- 5.7 (bring big size gear, it's harder than it looks.)
P2- 5.7 (really fun, steep corner. Pro was not always obvious. Thoughtful lead.)
P3- 5.8 (dramatic move, pretty hard but not ridiculous, with very good pro. Fantastic setting! Bad rope drag issues going up and left. I should have extended the pro under the roof.)

Getting down was annoying. To avoid going up the next 5.4 pitch, we rappelled down My Route on bolts. Was ridiculous.

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