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Little Squaretop Massif
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Second Peak Syndrome 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Dec 29, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The bottom half of the route follows the left of t...

Description 

This is by far the most straight forward and cleanest way to get to the summit of Little Squaretop Massif.

Go up the wide chimney, stemming some then climbing the crack on the left. An awkward but fully protectable exit to the left will take you onto a small ledge and an easy ground. Belay from the rap station or set up your own.

To get to the summit, crawl through the opening behind the rap station and then head right.

Location 

Approach as for Little Squaretop, but continue up the gully to the top of the enormous chock almost to the saddle between Little Squaretop and Little Squaretop Massif. The route starts directly below the rap station.

Protection 

Small rack.


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