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First Amendment T 
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Second Amendment T 
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Solo, Gracias T 

Second Helping 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: August 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 3, 2015

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Description 

Good climbing, marred slightly by a necessary crossing of a dirty corner/ramp.
P1 5.9 G 110': Climb up the right-rising crack/ramp, then high-step onto a stance to the left of the top of the ramp. This stance allows the bottom variation of Second Amendment (aka Bill of Rights) to move left back onto the normal route; instead, climb straight up the steep slab following a bolt line, past the left edge of a horizontal crack, then left to a stance under a large, dirty block. Back onto the slab to get around the block (V1), then left across the dirt to the main slab, continuing past a couple bolts, the right edge of an overlap, then back out right onto the slab. Go up to the horizontal crack that leads left to the midpoint anchor of Second Amendment and belay.
P2 5.10b G 80': Move back right and follow bolt line up to a point 6' left of a boulder wedged under the the right end of overhang. Make a very hard move to reach a horizontal (this may be impossible if you are under 6' tall) and gain a stance on it. Easy climbing reaches the trees.

V1 Short Change 5.10a: Like its older neighbor, the standard route required the intervention of a tall friend to crack the overhang; this option allows the vertically challenged to manage the difficulties, and throws in some original terrain of its own. Instead of heading for the niche below the dirty boulder, climb up the slab to its end at a left-facing ramp. Step up and right onto the outside corner and climb up the edge to the ledge at the top of Solar Grace. Belay here.
P2: Step down from the belay anchor, to the point where you reached the ledge, then traverse left across the corner onto the main slab, rejoining the regular line for awhile after traversing about fifteen feet. At the overhang, go directly to the wedged boulder, and use it to step up, then shift left to get onto the large horizontal crack above the overhang. Still a difficult move, but happily possible for shorter climbers, and ironically, more difficult for tall ones. Beta: pinch the sharpness hard!

Location 

This route begins as for the bottom variation of Second Amendment: at the bottom of a right-rising mini-ramp/crack.

Protection 

Mix of bolts and gear. Bring a full, single trad rack.
To descend, scramble up and left from the top of the route to the top anchor (a tree anchor) of Second Amendment, and use those two anchors for a two-rappel descent.


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By Gunkiemike
Jul 16, 2017

Passing the 3rd bolt seemed harder than 5.9

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