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Dragon's Spine
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Second Breakfast 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 850', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Brady Deal and Lang Van Dommelen, 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer (June-July)
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Brady Deal on Jul 30, 2015

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Route starts on the ledges at the top of the snow ...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

Climb from the base of the Dragons Footstool through thin seams, sparse cracks and good chicken heads. All pitches were climbed with a 70m rope.Gear is good when you get it, but can be R-rated at times. All the rock is very positive and strong. Belays are all conveniently located on ledges, although some simul-climbing is require on a few pitches (~25' at most).
This route is a direct start into the route "The Two Towers", and was also climbed in hopes of doing the Complete Dragon Spine Traverse. Rappel off the back and climb directly onto the ridge proper and into "The Two Towers"

Location 

Travel down the Pika Glacier, across bare ice (depending on time of year), and over moraine. Hike the choss gulley/fan to the base of the footstool and start on the obvious ledge.

Protection 

double rack to 3", set of stoppers. No fixed anchors or gear on route.
Sling anchor located on a block on the back of the tower to rappel into the gulley.


Photos of Second Breakfast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second Breakfast topo w/ pitches and belays.
BETA PHOTO: Second Breakfast topo w/ pitches and belays.

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