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Watanobe Wall
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Bored of the Rings T 
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Season Opener 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett & Dave Black, January 1983
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Elva Rogers climbs Season Opener in Joshua Tree Na...


This route is on the south-most buttress of the west face of the west side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail Springs road. This is the south end of Watanobe Wall. This climb and others by it are best reached by going to the left from the south entrance to Steve Canyon (past Grand Theft Avacodo) or approached more easily still from the road parking areas to the west. Approaching from the inside of Steve Canyon is a waste of time and energy. Go out to the south, then around to the west.

To find this route first spot a rather obvious roof, perhaps 6 meters off of the deck, then walk/squirm to the base on a worn footpath into a bit of a boulder-grotto. This climb is on the left of the exposed wall, in a steep, right-leaning crack system. Climb up and right in this crack to reach a horizontal, then continue up and right on the face above, which gets lower angled as you go. There is no pro up top, but the grade gets easier with the runout. Once you reach the top, go straight back to a cam or large-nut belay in a horizontal crack.

Descent is down the rap on the east face above Candelabra and walk back around to the base.


A standard Light rack. The upper 1/3 of this line is face climbing without protection, but it is progressively less steep with increasing height and the danger is probably minimal despite the runout. Cams in a horizontal provide a TR or belay anchor back some distance from the route.

Photos of Season Opener Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Francine Beattie climbs Season Opener in Joshua Tr...
Francine Beattie climbs Season Opener in Joshua Tr...

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By Drederek
Nov 8, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great route with an awkward, balancey section. We scrambled straight over to the east side and rapped off chains.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Good route. The tricky part was at the top. Thank you blue tricam in the flared crack.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 28, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I disagree with the R rating. The initial face moves are done with a protectable crack at your feet. After that it’s 4th class tops.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are no issues with a lack of gear at the top, There is ridiculously great gear before you pull the bulge onto the top slab section, and the angle is super duper low, and no one would have any issues with a lack of gear...... you can literally walk to the belay stance.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun climbing to get there however!
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Jan 16, 2017

The right slanting angle of the crack will require moves not ordinary for most Jtree routes. The pro in the crack is good. The top out on balancy, small feet, traversing higher and farther from your last pro adds spice!

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