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5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 0 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | A. Hobson and R. Machina ?? |
Page Views: | 1,166 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Nov 6, 2006 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A failed attempt to find Ingraham's route "SouthWest Wall". What we ended up on was a dirty crack with deteriorating holds. I'm only including this as beta so other climbers can learn what to avoid.
Starting in a dirty fist crack, climb 15 ft up to a large pointy and unstable flake. From this gain another crack system which angles slightly left. A few face holds on either side of the crack help, but are not very solid (we broke a couple off completely). The crack thins down to a crux about 40ft up. Commit to the dicey crux and gain a thank-god ledge. Bail-away, the nex tpitch looks even worse.
Starting in a dirty fist crack, climb 15 ft up to a large pointy and unstable flake. From this gain another crack system which angles slightly left. A few face holds on either side of the crack help, but are not very solid (we broke a couple off completely). The crack thins down to a crux about 40ft up. Commit to the dicey crux and gain a thank-god ledge. Bail-away, the nex tpitch looks even worse.
Location
Approach as for Normal Route up to Dark Canyon. A short distance into dark canyon are two very large conifers (A ponderosa and a fir I think) only 20 ft apart. This climb starts up a crack directly behind the fir tree.
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