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Seams Alright 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Josh Lowy, Nate Redon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: Nate Redon on May 11, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Nate working through the first crux.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin up Robin's Ramp and traverse along a rail to clip the first bolt. A series of 3 technical boulder problems along a seam (bolts) gets you to a "jug" and final mantle. From there, insecure but much easier climbing along the seam brings you to an open corner. Make a heady move and stem up to the anchors. Blue tile lounge is just above if you wanna go there.

An alternate start goes up Plum Pudding and uses good edges to clip the 2nd bolt and traverse left. This might be a better option for short people, bring some gear for this start.

There are currently permadraws on two of the bolts because I misjudged some clipping stances. I'll move the bolts when I have time, but the permadraws fix the issue for now.

Location 

Seams Alright follows the arete between Robin's Ramp and Plum Pudding. Look for the bolts.

Protection 

5x bolts ; Bring some ~.3 sized gear for after the crux. It's also possible to protect the final corner with a tiny brass nut (I used #2 offset) but the fall is clean if you don't bring it. The alternate start requires a little more gear.

Bolted anchor with rap rings on top. A 60m rope should get you down.


Photos of Seams Alright Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The last insecure move into the stem box
The last insecure move into the stem box
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate finishing out the crux section.
Nate finishing out the crux section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta on Seams Alright (Route #319 from the 1993 gu...
BETA PHOTO: Beta on Seams Alright (Route #319 from the 1993 gu...
Rock Climbing Photo: High on Seams Alright
High on Seams Alright

Comments on Seams Alright Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Sultan
From: Seattle
May 11, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

An awesome new route with amazing movement and classic Index improbable climbing. While maybe a .12 somewhere else, I think 11d is very fair for Index and none of the 3 boulder problems feel harder than V4.

As of now, after the last bolt, the thin crack running along the final slabby corner to the chains cannot be protected until the dirt gets cleared out. When it is cleared out, a small brass offset or a red (maybe yellow) ballnut should easily protect the insecure move to get established into the corner. A fall after the last bolt, however, is unlikely if you've managed to get that far. I'm pretty sure you need a 70m rope to get off, there didn't seem to be too much excess rope after I rapped which makes me think this pitch is around 32m or so.

Hop on this route guys and give it love!
By Stamati Anagnostou
May 14, 2017

Nice! I was looking at this thing last season, wondering.... I'm psyched to hop on it!
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
May 19, 2017

I did a little more cleaning today Adam, a tiny brass nut (#2) protects the final moves well but the fall is clean if you don't have it. A 60m rope does get you down as well.
By Josh Lowy
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 4, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Sweet route! The cruxes are bouldery with some longer reaches on poor slab feet, but the rock offers some options for shorter climbers.
If you're attempting this route I think the .4 on Plum Pudding is necessary the first go, to learn how to clip the first bolt, but I think I would have been comfortable without it. After busting out the crux sections, the fourth bolt is slightly out of reach, but the gap can be protected by a .3 cam. The brass offset at the stem near the top fits, but seems like it could be flicked out pretty easily. Not sure there are any other better options though.
Get on it and crush!

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