REI Community
Sheep's Nose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10 Sheep and a Goat T 
An Apostle or Two  T 
Army Route  T 
Assassination Slab  T 
Chinook T 
Direct Line  T 
Evening Stroll T,TR 
For Wimps Only  T 
Friction T 
Golden Fleece  T 
Hard Monkeys  T 
Harpoon The Manta Ray  T 
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 
Lamb's Prey T 
Lost in Space T 
Old Man Route  T 
Ozone Direct T 
Pimp, The T 
Pit of Despair, The 
Psycho Babble T 
Seamis T,TR 
Sheep in Wolves Clothing  T 
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 
Sheep’s Dare  T 
Sheer Sheep Attack  T 
Southeast Face T 
Space Cadet  T 
Ten Years After T 
Unknown T,TR 
When Sheep are Nervous T 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
No hands rest.


Just right of Ten Years After is a thin crack on a less then vertical wall that leads to a one foot roof and onto another face. It can be top-roped from the top of Ten Years After.

Up to the roof, the climbing is an exercise in smearing, balance and micro-crystal edging. Pulling through the roof is the crux and will have you wondering how you did it, if you do indeed do it! The face above remains very thin and balancy, but is protected by two bolts.

While the climb will greatly challenge someone who usually manages to nail most 5.11a climbs, it's hard to give it more than one star. Let's say that if you have just enjoyed Ten Year's After, it's a very worthwhile top-rope, but isn't a destination in itself.


Although neither my partner nor I led (or could have led) it, the pro is, as the book (Hubbel) says, thin: RPs and small wires to supplement the two bolts. There is some very tough climbing before the bolts, quite possibly the crux is over with before being able to clip.

Photos of Seamis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chalking up just below the crux.
Chalking up just below the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route with climber about halfway up.
BETA PHOTO: The route with climber about halfway up.

Comments on Seamis Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hayden Yurkanis
Jul 22, 2003

The bolts protecting the crux of this climb are terrible.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 22, 2004

The first bolt desperately needs to be replaced, fun route though. Felt harder than 11a.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Jun 6, 2006

The first protection bolt appears to have been recently replaced and there are two new anchor bolts at the top. I recommend this as a good TR from those bolts after leading P1 of Ten Years after, as I did it, unless you are super comfortable at this grade, which is probably harder than 11a.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a good climb! The bolts have been replaced, and you can safely lead this route with RPs through medium nuts.

Maybe it's because I'm tall, but this felt like .11a. I rarely onsight this grade, but I was able to this time. In the end, however, the rock doesn't care, and all you should know is that this is a great climb that protects well and is a lot of fun!

Give her a lead burn!
By slim
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

That's good news about the bolts. When I did it, they were in really bad shape. I originally gave it an R rating, but I am thinking about changing it to PG-13. It's been a while since I did it. I think I remember decent small gear but maybe a slight bit of being uncomfortable as well.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Dec 15, 2014

Really good climb! However, I don't think it's R, either.... It's certainly a great combination of this and dicey, but PG-13. It can be protected with small nuts for the start, a 0.5, and a handful of 00 TCUs and 0 TCUs. Go do it!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About