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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Dec 14, 2002

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  • Description 

    This route is far nicer than it's name would suggest. It's located just uphill from Tommy Gun and the Raven dihedral, and downhill from the Green Thumb. It is easily identified by sighting the thin crack heading up the steep, clean sandstone face.

    Start by angling right to a small tree, then fire straight up the thin crack/seam. Thin pro can protect the section above the tree and below the first bolt. It starts getting hard there and seems to just get harder as you progress upward... pretty sustained, excellent climbing throughout the bolted top, lots of very thin footwork too!

    I recall my partner stopped to pro above the 3rd bolt, and that's how I'd probably do it too on lead, but it's pumpy to place the gear. And I could see some people rather running it out to the ledge, it's maybe 10 or 15 feet past the bolt or so. At any rate, I was glad to be following this sustained pitch!

    Belay on the horizontal ledge above the crack, which ends up more or less below the second pitch roof of Tommy Gun. There are no rap bolts there so you can either finish with the Tommy Gun roof (5.11a) which is fun and exposed, or I believe it would be possible to 4th class traverse directly over and down to your right to the Raven rappel.


    Three bolts protect the crux section but bring small to medium nuts and possibly smaller-range Aliens/cams.

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