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Seaface 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Nate Ball on Jan 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Seaface from on top of the Appentice

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Description 

This "route" is actually an entire slab that faces directly east towards the ocean. It is a brilliant white block split by many stellar cracks, none as long or consistent as you wish they were.

The right side starts at the lowest point and ascends a sweet hand crack to a rounded slab with a wide horizontal to a ledge. The right side then slabs out to a dirt-filled crack, a stance, and then a face covered in various small cracks. Go straight up to bolt anchors.

The middle and left options ascend significantly easier and more broken cracks to a lower ledge. They then follow two separate but adjacent cracks to just below a roof. You can step left and follow Staircase to the top or go right - try not to get your rope stuck - under and around the roof. Romp up to another set of bolt anchors between Staircase and the right variation.

The grade of 5.7 represents the hardest move amongst all these options, but in general the climbing is a simple, pleasant, plug-and-go kind of fun.

Location 

The entire east-facing aspect of School Gate. The first route you will encounter if coming in from the north entrance.

Protection 

Gear to 3"
316 steel anchors (2011) - right and left side


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