REI Community
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Jenn's Hooked T 
Sea of Tranquility T 

Sea of Tranquility 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brad Young 1989
Page Views: 1,817
Submitted By: Chris Gorgolewski on Oct 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pitch 2

Description 

Karl Palsson writes: "...[this] is a mega classic. Really really nice climbing.

Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]

A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.

There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.

The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.

The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt

The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)

They do however, get easier.

The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.

Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.

This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001."

Location 

n/a

Protection 

n/a


Photos of Sea of Tranquility Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Herring Creek Dome view from the approach.
Herring Creek Dome view from the approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: compliments of sendersolutions.net
compliments of sendersolutions.net

Comments on Sea of Tranquility Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 22, 2002

"Sea of Tranquility" here is a mega classic. Really really nice climbing.

Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]

A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.

There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.

The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.

The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt

The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)

They do however, get easier.

The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.

Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.

This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001

Cheers,

Karl Palsson

tweak.net.au
By Chad Lawver
From: Yosemite Village, California
Sep 13, 2015

Would recommend only for confident 5.7 leaders, as the first bolt is about 15-20 feet off the deck.
By Mark T
Sep 26, 2015

The first pitch is fun, interesting and bolted well, not sport—the first bolt where you'd expect it to be. After the second pitch, the climbing is easy, but mostly footwork, not much in the way of positive handholds—finding adequate protection is the issue, which is sparse and marginal, especially for a beginning 5.7 leader.

I set up a belay for the last pitch, just below the slabby step/roof in a good horizonal crack. The step/roof/ mantle move can be protected with an obvious #3 Camalot. I'm surprised so few reports include protection to this size.

Dispersed Camping on Pinecrest Peak:

We spent a pleasant night before the climb on Pinecrest Peak, just above Red Herring Dihedrals, with good views and no water. To get down to the base of Herring Creek Dome, you must first get around the broken southwest cliffs of Pinecrest Peak. To do this, start down the mountain biking trail that takes off southeasterly from the deadend of the dirt road to Pinecrest Peak. Leave the bike trail after 100 feet at a slabby area and cut right, back to the cliffs. Near and below a large tree is the beginning of an easy ramp that will take you down to where you can cross the huge bowl of scree and talus that separates the lower Herring Dome from the higher Pinecrest Peak.

After we topped out on Sea of Tranquility, we were not returning to the base. So, rather than heading right, across the obvious steep 3rd class slabs, we headed straight up into a small granite gully that led to where we could climb easy 2-3 class up and along the summit spine, and over to another granite outcropping, heading roughly toward Pinecrest Peak and the saddle that connects it to Herring Dome, forming the upper part of the talus bowl. We were able to do this without losing elevation, swimming in manzanita, or climbing harder than easy 3rd class. Then, from the saddle, you can see it's possible to contour around the bowl just under the Pinecrest Peak cliffs and back to the same ramp that leads again up to Pinecrest Peak.

By A Johnson
From: Paso Robles
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Only need to use technique on the first three pitches. You can simul-climb or just walk the rest of this this one. Third pitch belay setup is arbitrary. You can sling some horns and use several pieces of gear above the final 5.6 move. As for protecting the 5.6 mantle, any number of options are available depending on your exact point of attack. I used a great #2 Camalot, but if you get creative, anything could work.

Some of the bolts are hard to see as you climb. Number 6 on the first pitch seemed a bit off route and snuck up about 20 feet to my right when I finally saw it. A little traverse and no problem, but you may want to bring an extra runner to account for the rope drag.

For the descent, stay above the veg line and traverse the ridge climber's right. Drop down the drainage once you've cleared the whitethorn, your shins will appreciate you.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About