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Sea of Green  T 
Sea of Green Direct Start T 
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When the Dog Bites  T 

Sea of Green  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Paul Cormier
Page Views: 2,074
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down at Sea of Green's P1 Crack

Description 

Originally listed in MP as "The Green Mile" the name has been corrected Feb 2017 per info in "The Notches" previous verbal info that indicated "The Green Mile" was incorrect.

The person who showed me this climb said: “If this were at Cathedral they would start lining up for it at 5am

START: about 25-30 ft left of Saber, or 100-120 feet right of Bolt in the Sky, at a shallow, low-angle, 15ft-high, left-facing insider corner that starts a few feet off the ground. There's a 5-6" diameter pine tree about 6 ft up on the left.

Originally, P1 was long and P2 (with a gear anchor) was short. However, in late 2015 a new route (Rock Candy) was put in which crossed Green Mile, and Green Mile is now better climbed using the double bolt anchor put in on a great ledge of that climb.

P1 - Scramble up the” low-angle crack (often filled with pine needles) and climb the corner, clip the bolt and make a few steps left into “THE CRACK”. Climb the crack (DUH!) until you can move up right to a ledge with a double bolt anchor. 70-80 ft 5.6+ to 5.7-

P2 - Move right and up over, and into, a second crack. Climb the second crack (DUH!) [nice surprise!] When this second crack narrows and ends, step left onto the white face and climb it (5.4-5.5 PG-13 / R ) to a stance on a 6”-8inch” ledge with a crack to the left. [This is the original P1 belay spot, it takes a green (#1) and/or red (# 1.5) Camalot]
Climb directly up, pass by the 2-foot-diameter “hole” ( complete with its own garden) into a corner that starts to curve right. Protect, then step left over the corner (brushed footholds in the correct place, DUH!) onto the face above and the final low-angle crack. Double bolt anchor 20-25 ft left, or belay off gear. About 160-180 ft, 5.4 -5.5 PG-13/R

Protection 

Usual Rack


Photos of Sea of Green Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Miller atop Sea of Green's second crack
BETA PHOTO: Ben Miller atop Sea of Green's second crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo/Sketch of Base Area around "Sea of Green...
BETA PHOTO: Topo/Sketch of Base Area around "Sea of Green...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Saber Slab": "Sea of Green" (...
BETA PHOTO: "Saber Slab": "Sea of Green" (...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sea of Green's P1 crack ! (Less vegetation tod...
BETA PHOTO: Sea of Green's P1 crack ! (Less vegetation tod...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sea of Green's P2 wide crack (originally on P1...
BETA PHOTO: Sea of Green's P2 wide crack (originally on P1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Sea of Green's P1
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Sea of Green's P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom on the second pitch crack
Tom on the second pitch crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom finishes cleaning the first pitch
Tom finishes cleaning the first pitch

Comments on Sea of Green Add Comment
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By John Halupowski
From: Intervale, N.H.
Nov 9, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think the crux is passing the bolt to get to the crack.
By Northeast Alpine Start
From: Conway, New Hampshire
May 24, 2016

Did this today and it makes sense to move up to the bolted anchor on the 2nd pitch. Easy enough to step back right and pass the deep hole/garden and finish the original 3rd pitch... no need to stop and build a gear anchor IMO

Video of our quick trip today:
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
May 25, 2016

"Roger that!" ...the route description was updated after the dbl bolt anchor was put in at the end of P1, but before the dbl bolt anchor was put in at the end of "Rock Candy's" P2 ( and also before the top rap anchor was put in.)

While I haven't actually done it, I suspect that one can reach from Rock Candy's P1 anchor all the way to the top in one long pitch (since the descent is only two less-than-100ft-each-raps), so there's probably no real need to go to any anchor at all above the first.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 26, 2016

According to posts further down in this link neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php/t... it is an Ed Webster and Paul Cormier route, Sea of Green. Looks like a destination route.

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