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Sea Monkey 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo showing Sea Monkey (Red) and Steelhead (Blue)

Description 

Start 20 feet right of Excelsior below a chossy crack system. Climb up some jumbly rock clipping a few bolts until you get to an arete with crack out right. Though people have climbed more in the crack down low you do not need to. Laybacks with bomber kneebars is another option. Above the alcove do some weird stems in the chimney crack and get to a stance with some hard face moves moving left into a thin finger crack. A couple cruxy traverse moves at a bolt leads to a stance where you clip the last bolt. Continue up the thin seam mostly face climbing to an anchor.

Location 

Right of Excelsior.

Protection 

bolts


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By Patrick O'Donnell
Mar 29, 2014

I think it's like 13 bolts or so? Cannot recall. I re-bolted the top half because people were not liking the hard clips out left. much better now. As it turns out most people climb in the crack, which I never really intended but oh well. I've cleaned up the crack a bit and will continue climbing and cleaning it.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 12, 2016

Had fun on this thing but have to admit every time I tried to leave the crack I found the moves outside too difficult and kept getting pulled back in. Rained a ton of dirt down on my poor belayer. Are you calling this 11- if you stay on the face Patrick? Not sure I can justify a tick the way I did it. Also kinda hard to star as the face out left looked clean but I managed to find all the choss. Got some great jams though. I hope this thing gets climbed and cleaned more.
By Patrick O'Donnell
Apr 18, 2016

Yes I took it left to follow the seam. Going straight up the crack is a choss pile so I avoided that. I know. Hard moves going left but didn't seem like there was any good alternative. 11a,b,c? Hard to say for me so I'll leave it to you all.
By Patrick O'Donnell
May 21, 2017

I came back to this route after not climbing it for several years and realized the 2nd to last bolt at the traverse face move is in the wrong spot and is contrived and makes the route horrible. I moved that bolt yesterday so you can clip it easy from the crack out right and do the hard traverse face moves right at the bolt. Seems WAY better now. Sorry about that folks!
By Marek Hajek
From: Reno, NV
May 29, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The Location doesn't seem right - it says left of Excelsior, while the description says right of Excelsior.
I was curious, where did you intend to climb left of the crack? Right from the ground or at some bolt higher up?
By Patrick O'Donnell
Jun 2, 2017

Ooops! That was a typo. Yes it is RIGHT of Excelsior.

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