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Mothership Cliff
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Steelhead S 

Sea Monkey 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Topo showing Sea Monkey (Red) and Steelhead (Blue)

Description 

Start 20 feet right of Excelsior below a crack system. Climb up some jumbly rock clipping a few bolts until you get to an arete with crack out right. Though people have climbed more in the crack you do not need to. Climb up doing easy laybacks on a clean arete with good rock mostly avoiding the crack except for feet. A thin finger crack leads to a stance where you clip a bolt. continue up the thin seam mostly face climbing as the seam is too small for fingers. The seam heads up and left to an anchor.

Location 

Left of Excelsior.

Protection 

bolts


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By Patrick O'Donnell
Mar 29, 2014

I think it's like 13 bolts or so? Cannot recall. I re-bolted the top half because people were not liking the hard clips out left. much better now. As it turns out most people climb in the crack, which I never really intended but oh well. I've cleaned up the crack a bit and will continue climbing and cleaning it.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 12, 2016

Had fun on this thing but have to admit every time I tried to leave the crack I found the moves outside too difficult and kept getting pulled back in. Rained a ton of dirt down on my poor belayer. Are you calling this 11- if you stay on the face Patrick? Not sure I can justify a tick the way I did it. Also kinda hard to star as the face out left looked clean but I managed to find all the choss. Got some great jams though. I hope this thing gets climbed and cleaned more.
By Patrick O'Donnell
Apr 18, 2016

Yes I took it left to follow the seam. Going straight up the crack is a choss pile so I avoided that. I know. Hard moves going left but didn't seem like there was any good alternative. 11a,b,c? Hard to say for me so I'll leave it to you all.