Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Precipice aka The South Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albatross T 
Balance Queen T 
Band of Gypsys T 
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Boys From Bangor T 
Byzantine T 
Chicken of the Sea T 
Chitlin's Corner T 
Connecticut Cracks T 
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 
Gale Face T 
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 
Green Mt. Breakdown T 
Grendal T 
Gunklandia T 
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
High Wire T 
Jaws T 
Juvenile T,S 
London Bridges T 
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Maniacal Depression T 
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 
Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
Pipe Dreams T 
Precipice Ledges T 
Quiver T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Staircase, The T 
Standard Route T 
Star Face Mole T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 
Swept Away T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 
Wet Lithuanian, The T 
Wilner's Route TR 

Sea Gypsy 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,676
Submitted By: Andrew Mertens on Jun 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Sea Gypsy, as seen from below. ...

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun and varied route that pulls through an awesome, obvious roof crack you can see from the ground. The second pitch is a bit spicy but I don't think it's R-rated like the guidebook indicates.

Pitch 1:(5.8 50 ft.) Climb the corner on the right side of the buttress to the two bolt anchor

Pitch 2: (5.8 PG-13/R 70 ft.) Make insecure slabby face moves off the anchor (5.8 crux)to reach a bolt about fifteen feet up. This gets a 5.8R in the guidebook cause if you blow the crux you're going to take a factor two fall on the anchor. After the first bolt continue up easier and slightly run-out climbing right then left up a ramp to a two bolt anchor. (You could probably run this pitch together with pitch one, then you wouldn't have the crux right over the anchor.)

Pitch 3 (5.9+ 90ft.) Climb up under the first, smaller roof, clipping a piece of cord attached to a piton in a small corner over the lip. Pull up into the corner then climb right and then back left till you are under the roof crack. Plug in a #1 or #2 then pull out the roof on jams and crimps on the face on the left. Savor the exposure then climb to the two bolt anchor at the top.

Descent: 2 single rope rappels

Location 

Starts on the right side of the buttress about 100 feet left of the obvious Chlitlin Corner.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Comments on Sea Gypsy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Jun 20, 2016

Thought the hardest moves to be heading up to the piton. The jamming out of the roof is solid!
By DCSwish23
From: Maine/Spain
Sep 21, 2016

First pitch was terrible and dirty with no pro. Second pitch seemed really sketchy and dangerous to me. I think this would be a terrible lead for a 5.9 climber. Probably not even good for a 5.10 climber. Unimpressed with the first two pitches.