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BETA PHOTO: Upper 25 feet of pitch 1.
Jam the hand crack that leads into a shallow, right-facing corner. Move up the chockstones, and mount the golden block beneath the roof. Climb right out the roof, and set a belay or fire up the puzzled face to the two bolted hangers right of a small prow.
Standard rack up to #4.
BETA PHOTO: Crystal approaching the roof. This shows the upper...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the start of the climb.
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
May 28, 2013
The route designation is somewhat confusing on this part of the crag. Sea Biscuit leads directly to Funky Gold Patina. In other words, Sea Biscuit is P1, and FGP is P2&3 of a really nice 200 ft route. Linking pitches yields a line that is equal in quality to Neighsayer. We found that the Sea Biscuit pitch goes well as one pitch. We did it by making an airy but easy step left off the roof to an excellent crack with good protection. The "crack" straight above roof won't take pro. The step across is done at the point that the belayer is standing in the photo. The first pitch seemed to be about 5.9. P3 is about 10b sport, p4 is 10a thin hands. It would be nice to have two green c4s for p4, but the anchor will likely take at least one. Take the Neighsayer raps down. They are 15 feet east of the belay. Four stars, for sure. A little easier but more sustained than Neighsayer.