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Seal Rock
Routes Sorted
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Archaeopteryx T 
Choose Life S,TR 
Choose Muscle S 
East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 
East Face South Side T 
Gruffalo, The S 
I Am The Walrus S 
Jade Gate S 
Misbehaven T,TR 
Primate T 
Sea Bird T 
Sea of Joy S 
Shortcut (East Face) T 
Skin Flute S,TR 
Southwest Face T 
Supercell S 
Thunder Muscle S 
Yellow Door Direct S 
Yellow Door, The T 

Sea Bird 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Phil Gruber and Stephen Felker, June 2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Phil Gruber on Jul 9, 2017

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  • Description 

    Sea Bird climbs most of Sea of Joy but finishes on Archeopteryx via The Yellow Door. The line makes for a fun, exciting, and continuous outing in terms of grade and style and is a great way to experience this amazing wall without the X rating of Archeopteryx or the 5.13 climbing of other routes on the wall.

    P1. 5.11- (5.10 PG-13). Climb P1 of Sea of Joy protecting with 9 bolts augmented by a few small cams. I started from the left-facing, overlapping corners to the left of the first bolt and was able to place a couple of cams to avoid groundfall potential.

    P2. 5.11+. Clip 5 bolts climbing out and over the roof. This is short, fun, and airy.

    P3. 5.12 (5.10 PG-24). Clip 6 bolts up Sea of Joy, then move right along the dike clipping two additional bolts on The Yellow Door. From the last bolt, drop down and right onto the final slap and corner of Archeopteryx placing gear and finishing at a two bolt belay on the wall just to the left of the exit of Archeopteryx. See The Yellow Door route description for gear details on this section of the route.

    All bolts are new ½” stainless steel, and all belays are solid two bolt (albeit hanging) belays.

    Don't be fooled by all the bolts... this is not a sport climb. The crux sections are well-protected, but be prepared to place gear and to climb through spaces between bolts and gear.

    Location 

    The route is on the north face of Seal Rock. Approach via the trail to Seal Rock, and then continue to hike west, passing the base of Seal Rock to the right (north) and up the steep climber’s trail until you reach the beautiful and imposing north face.

    The best way to descend is via the Sea of Joy rappel. (From the top of the route, downclimb 30 feet to the east). You can also downclimb the east face to the notch (start of Shortcut) and exit to the north. Descending from the anchor at the top of the route is not advised.

    Protection 

    Quickdraws and slings for bolts and belays and a set of cams from a blue Alien to a #1 Camalot, plus a #3 Camalot. An extra #0.5 Camalot is handy on the last pitch.

    If you're rappelling Sea of Joy, you will need an 80m or second rope.


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