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Se Miapaga La Baldufa 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 364
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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Over the roof and heading for the crux

Description 

This excellent moderate climbs mostly on large holds, and makes for a great warmup. A bitter hard crux at the end on sloping edges detracts slightly from what is otherwise a classic jug haul. This route shares the first two bolts with ¨Sayanora Baby¨. The route is unfortunately quite polished, but still enjoyable, and a nice change of pace once your skin is wrecked from the razor sharp crimps found elsewhere.

Begin with a few hard moves to gain the easy chimney. Head right at the 2nd bolt, traversing around the arete with difficulty. Work up the right side of the arete, then traverse right at the bulge, or a few feet below it, to a good stance below the obvious roof. Large jugs lead over the roof to a huge pocket. Make big moves to gain the white headwall, where several horrible crimps await. Continue over the bulge to the slab and the anchor.

Location 

Near the right end of the Espero Cliff. This route starts right above where the approach trail first meets the cliff, heading up a bright orange stem-box, and then following the right line of bolts when the lines split.

Protection 

~10 bolts, to 2 Bolt Anchor. Shares the first two bolts with "Sayanora Baby".


Photos of Se Miapaga La Baldufa Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning up the aesthetic wall.
Beginning up the aesthetic wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Over the second roof, nearing the wicked crux.
Over the second roof, nearing the wicked crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Slapping up the arete.
Slapping up the arete.

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