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Cabezon Peak
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Mad Hatter's Tea Party T 
SE Gully (Standard Route) T 
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SE Gully (Standard Route) 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 676
Submitted By: Mark Dalen on Jul 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Jay Evans on the upper part of the standard route.


Climb talus toward the obvious gully, which features a few boulder-type moves on quality rock. Above here the standard line makes a slightly dropping traverse right (north) before heading straight up. It is possible to go more or less straight up but this is all high angle talus where numerous accidents have occurred. Pick your line carefully.

As a side note, there is some potential for further development on this peak. A UNM Mountaineering Club trip in 1974, for example, climbed a direct line up the south face for 3 pitches of scary low-5th class. Other similar lines might be found by the intrepid choss-lover.


Begin at the SE corner of the peak.


Slings & a few small pieces will anchor any line down the gully for the timid follower. Higher up there are no solid anchors of any kind.

Photos of SE Gully (Standard Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cerro Cabezon summit cairn/shelter.
Cerro Cabezon summit cairn/shelter.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cerro Cabezon from the approach road.
BETA PHOTO: Cerro Cabezon from the approach road.

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