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Wind Tower - S Face
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SE Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Cleveland McCarty, Bill Becker, Ward Koeberle, Ted Koeberle (1957)
Page Views: 1,461
Submitted By: fossana on Mar 7, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Description 

    I was looking for quick lunchtime diversion and noticed the SE Chimney in Levin's guide. I wanted something new and figured the W Face would be busy anyway. When I saw that Levin had labeled this a 2-star adventure route, that was good enough for me. I didn't find the route overly chossy, slick, or dirty (by Eldo standards), although it was licheny due to minimal traffic. As a bonus, it tops out on the summit of Wind Tower.

    WARNING: Watch for poison ivy in the warmer months.

    Route Description
    Scramble to the top of the left-leaning ramp.

    P1 (5.5, 70')
    Climb the huecoed chimney to the top.

    P2 (5.5 R, 140')
    From the top of the chimney, make some exposed moves out right around the corner until you can start heading up the leftward-trending trough/ramp. Continue until you reach a ledge with a tree.

    P3 (5.0, 150')
    Head up featured slabs along the SE rib until you reach the more vertical final summit wall.

    P4 (5.2' 100')
    Head right up the head wall to gain the ridgeline, then on to the summit.

    Notes: there are many ways to go up the head wall at a similarly easy grade.


    Cross the bridge after the entrance kiosk and follow the trail downstream (NE) along the base of Wind Tower. Immediately after the bouldering zone look for a leftward-trending ramp that leads to a prominent chimney. If you round the corner and can see the gully between Wind Tower and Rotwand, you've gone too far.

    Follow slabs north on the east side of summit ridge. Look for a notch to the west just after the rusty cable. Rap or down climb (5.4) to the trail.


    I was soloing so not sure about gear.

    As of Mar. 2012, there was one old fixed pin on P2 and some sun-bleached slings at the top of the chimney. Otherwise, there is no fixed pro.

    Photos of SE Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Final slabs.
    Final slabs.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Summit views.
    Summit views.
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Headwall".
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the summit.
    Nearing the summit.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Trough.
    Rock Climbing Photo: View from the P2 belay.
    View from the P2 belay.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back to the corner traverse.
    Looking back to the corner traverse.
    Rock Climbing Photo: A remnant of climbing days of old.
    A remnant of climbing days of old.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the chimney.
    Looking down the chimney.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney (bucketed face variation to the right is W...
    Chimney (bucketed face variation to the right is W...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the route.
    BETA PHOTO: The start of the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Suggested belays.
    BETA PHOTO: Suggested belays.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Exposed corner traverse.
    BETA PHOTO: Exposed corner traverse.

    Comments on SE Chimney Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Gary Hann
    From: Coal Creek Canyon,Colorado
    Apr 26, 2016
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Approached this route via what I believe to be "Hot Toes", 5.7s, from Rossiter's old guidebook. I would have called it SE Chimney Direct, and 5.7s seemed to be the correct rating. The crux is not well-protected! As for the chimney itself, that seemed harder than 5.5. I haven't climbed many chimneys so maybe that is why it seemed harder. I did find good pro in the chimney including two chockstones to sling and some small cam placements. You do have to take the pro when it appears. There is enough pro, but it's not pick and choose. There would have been a good #4 Camalot near the top if I had brought one. The rap slings at the top of the chimney looked like crap, so we did the long traverse to the west along a shelf over to the rap stations. While doing the traverse, I looked back down, and there appears to be a rap station very close to the chimney. Just move out of the grove near the top of the chimney towards the face, and there it is. Couldn't have been more than 20 feet from the top of the chimney. Wish I had seen that when I was down there! This route would make a good first chimney lead but definitely not a good first lead - minus the Hot Toes approach that is.
    By slevin
    Mar 16, 2017

    The second pitch face climbing is the "R" part of this route, not the pitch one chimney.
    By fossana
    From: leeds, ut
    Mar 19, 2017

    Thanks, Steve. I've updated the description.

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