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Se Camina Espanol 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 49
Submitted By: Braxtron on Jan 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Great Warm up..Me on the on-sight, first time on l...

Description 

This route includes an obvious right facing dihedral. It's easy to get off-route on this one; don't necessarily follow the path of least resistance. Tons of friction on small jibs, sharp edges on holds. Look around for the jugs, there are plenty. Belayer beware: there is LOOSE ROCK as this route is pretty new (2/2/07).

Location 

This route is the second bolted line to the left of the bolder (just right of Mustang Sally, which climbs the mini-roof).

Protection 

Bolts, shared ring anchors w/Mustang Sally.


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By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Jan 29, 2007

I climbed this route several weeks ago and "pulled very little off." This route is rated 5.9+ because it follows the path of least resistance. If you were pulling big stuff off you were likely off route! As you said it is easy to get off route on this climb. (These guy's would not have a climb open with the stuff you described!)
By Jimbo
Feb 1, 2007

I have to agree with Andy one this one. I, and many others, have climbed that route many times, as it is one of the good warm up routes, and have never had any problems with loose rock.
Granted the Mustang is not glacier polished Yosemite granite and does have its share of crumbly bits, but the looseness you describe I cannot understand. I also can't see how you could get so far off route as Andy suggested. There is a line of bolts to follow after all.
Very curious, did you find other routes you did equally as loose???
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Feb 2, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I pulled off the largest block that day, probably 4 or 5 feet right of the bolt line and up near the top of this route. I intentionally pulled that one off.
For me, a lot of the rock felt loose, flexing when I pulled on it, rather than actually pulling off. (not specifically on this route)
Your description "crumbly bits", sounds like how I would describe it also. I guess the crumbly bits just bug me more than they bother you. Everything must be perfect, or I am not happy!
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 2, 2007

I don't mean to make the area sound like it's a bolted choss pile (it's certainly not), there are just the usual new-area "crumbly bits." Also, I must not dislike the area too much since I'm planning on going back soon. Very soon. Thanks for putting up some good routes! Also, I apologize if my observations sound like put-downs, because I don't intend them to be taken that way. (Condition report edited)
By Jimbo
Feb 3, 2007

I'm just giving you guys some grief. I like the Mustang just because it has an unpolished feel. It's not for everyone.
If you guys are finding and cleaning off some loose stuff, keep it up. Just be careful not to kill your belayer or your gear.
If you haven't done "The DMB", "Caballo Loco" or "Pencil Dick" they are the one's to do. Jump on them the next time your there.
Cheers
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Feb 12, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I was super scared on this route, as it was my first outdoor climb since October due to finger injury(damn tendons!). Plus it was slightly cold and really windy. And the rock felt so weird, since I have never been on this stuff before

I thought this was a little easy for 9+, mostly because of the great friction. On Lemmon it would have been rated 8+ probably, but I think 9 is pretty fair just because of some 'technical/thin' moves(for 5.8/9). For some reason this reminds me of Clip Clip Here/There at MunchkinLand, probably because of the stemming.
By CALEB ANDERSON
Jan 31, 2010

I don't recall stemming at all on the climb I did, possibly I am off here. It was my first time to the area. "Which is wonderful"

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