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SE Buttress 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b M4- R

Type:  Mixed, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b M4- R [details]
Season: Feb-March for mixed, June-Sep for rock
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Ben B on Jun 24, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Approximate line in stripped summer conditions... ...


Follows the steep ridge to the right of the South Chamber on the S/SE side/face of the massif.

Highly conditions dependent, if the whole route is skinned over and hard, it'll actually be very easy ice with a few mixed/rock moves thrown in. Otherwise, this seems to be one of the more commonly bailed-from routes on the massif.

Descend by rapping the "anchor" at the top of the West Gable- the prominent boulder at the farthest west end of the lower ridge (under, and to the west of, the summit ridge). It'll be festooned with 5 or 6 pieces of rope, webbing, and cord, and should still have a couple biners to thread through. Rap straight down into the South Chamber. Twins for one jump, or one 60 to get it in two.


Approaching iRock from the south side, the base of the route is the prominent buttress just right of the South Chamber. If summer, the route is easily identified by the fat off-width spitting the otherwise slabbing rock at the base. In the winter, the whole base is generally rimed over- just go up and follow the prominent line.


Cracks to accept every shape and size, if summer conditions.. otherwise, short screws, pickets, thin mixed rack to 2"

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