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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Sean Shannon & Kevin Worrall
Season: Fall - Spring
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Josh Higgins on Dec 20, 2015

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  • Description 

    This route is a beautiful gently overhanging crack and is the left of the two 12a trad lines on the wall. Move right from the belay carefully on loose but apparently stable holds to establish in the crack. Punch it 100' through the amazingly technical crack and face climbing until you approach the final bulge where you will move right into Charybdis. Save the bigger pieces for the upper half, especially a #3 for the end. This climb is difficult, but very climbable and the gear is excellent so give it a go!


    The twin cracks are obvious as you wrap around the cliff to the left. You will have to traverse the grassy ledge up and left, and climb a grassy 5.10a approach pitch to establish at the base of the climb.


    Double set to #3 C4. Bolts at starting and finishing anchors.

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