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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Art Gran and Jack Hansen 1958
Page Views: 496
Submitted By: Kurtz on May 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Start of Scungilli


This seldom-climbed route is really quite nice if you appreciate a "first ascent experience" (dirt and lichen). The cruxes are low and not easily protected.

P1: 5.7 PG Follow the crack behind the tree about 15 feet to a stance (crux 1). Continue up past right-pointing flakes. From the top flake, traverse left about 20 feet on small holds with little pro (crux 2), until you can move up to the small roof. Pull the roof at a weakness or traverse back right to go around. Establish a gear anchor above, or just link P2.(100 ft.)

P2: 5.4 PG Climb up and stay to the right of the trees in the left-facing corner. Follow the least-licheny path to the GT. You'll finish just below P3 of Maria (obvious link-up) (80 ft.)


Walk right from below the main Maria corner until you see a large tree growing up on a bouldery ledge. Route starts behind tree. (see Photo)

Descent: Walk left on the GT to Maria rappel station.


Standard rack.

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By Kurtz
May 26, 2014

Not recommended for beginning 5.7 climbers. Tricky to protect leader and second on P1 traverse. Watch rope drag.

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